Allison Variation 5.9 FDA: Dean Allison and Guy Humphrey GEAR: gear to 1 inch
This climb is not documented anywhere and we saw no signs of climbers on the line. This is a good line if you prefer finger cracks to chimneys and you are not up for the 5.10 cracks on the main face. The pitch can also be used to make a four pitch route that has 5.9 climbing on each pitch. The climbing is as good or better than the upper 5.9 pitches.
The climb starts to the left of the 5.8 P1 variation in a sharp layback finger crack. About half way up the left facing dihedral, the crack starts to disappear and the gear looks like it goes with it. There is good gear to be found, but you will need to look for it. The top of the dihedral is capped by a small roof. It forces you out on face to the right with a hidden line of holds that keeps it at 5.9. This exciting tarverse ends at a belay below the 2nd 5.9 pitch variation. Fun stuff!