Allison Variation, 5.9 FDA: Dean Allison and Guy Humphrey Gear: gear to 1 inch This climb is not documented anywhere, and we saw no signs of climbers on the line. This is a good line if you prefer finger cracks to chimneys and you are not up for the 5.10 cracks on the main face. The pitch can also be used to make a four pitch route that has 5.9 climbing on each pitch. The climbing is as good or better than the upper 5.9 pitches. The climb starts to the left of the 5.8 P1 variation in a sharp layback finger crack. About halfway up the left-facing dihedral, the crack starts to disappear and the gear looks like it goes with it. There is good gear to be found, but you will need to look for it. The top of the dihedral is capped by a small roof. It forces you out on face to the right with a hidden line of holds that keeps it at 5.9. This exciting tarverse ends at a belay below the 2nd 5.9 pitch variation. Fun stuff!

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A comparison of Flying Buttress pre- and post- the May 2022 rockfall.

10a dihedral of pitch 5 (direct variation).

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Guy H.

Aug 21, 2003

“Allison Variation, 5.9
FDA: Dean Allison and Guy Humphrey
Gear: gear to 1 inch

This climb is not documented anywhere, and we saw no signs of climbers on the line. This is a good line if you prefer finger cracks to chimneys and you are not up for the 5.10 cracks on the main face. The pitch can also be used to make a four pitch route that has 5.9 climbing on each pitch. The climbing is as good or better than the upper 5.9 pitches.

The climb starts to the left of the 5.8 P1 variation in a sharp layback finger crack. About halfway up the left-facing dihedral, the crack starts to disappear and the gear looks like it goes with it. There is good gear to be found, but you will need to look for it. The top of the dihedral is capped by a small roof. It forces you out on face to the right with a hidden line of holds that keeps it at 5.9. This exciting tarverse ends at a belay below the 2nd 5.9 pitch variation. Fun stuff!
”

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The nice 1-inch crack on pitch 3 with the 5.9+ roof above.

New route beta:
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Green: Class 4 to the base.
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P1 red 5.10c/d thin seam, slab feet, ledge below.
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P2 purple: 5.9 fun.
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P3-4 bright red/; 5.10b sketch loose traverse.
<br>
P5 blue: 5.8 fun easy finish.
<br>
Green: Class 4 down.

A route overlay for Upper Flying Buttress.

Mike Elges leading the .10c variation. A must do if you climb the grade!

Matt rounds the corner on pitch 3. Picture taken from just past the big roof.

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