1/2 Route, AKA Unknown 5.10+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Conrad Anker? |
| Submitted By: | George Bell on Apr 28, 2001 |
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Bill leading the cool huecoed route.
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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing.
See www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2012-climbing-closures-announced.h>>> for more info
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is the "warm-up" route left of Huecos Rancheros and Namaste. It is shorter and only requires one rope.
Crank up overhanging huecos to the anchor.
All routes on this wall were established ground up placing bolts hanging off hooks!
Protection 7 bolts, 3 bolt anchor with carabiners.
Location This is the first bolted route from the left. It starts on a series of ladder rung-like horizontal features.
Not a slab climb!
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Ben getting pumped and John getting bitten by blac...
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The door to this 10+. Perin Blanchard starts his j...
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on-sight go..
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lots of rests, arm-bars, knee bars, and the occasi...
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beautiful color contrasting ecosystem
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Just one of a few great rests
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1/2 route
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The prettiest rock you can imagine...
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Erika Kozera on 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (10d).
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Erika Kozera on 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (10d).
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Classic!!!
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Really great and photogenic route.. A little sandy...
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amazing route...sandy, but amazing.
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Sandy buckets.
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Angus
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Angus
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Angus
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Angus
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Angus
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| Comments on 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown |
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By Dan Russell
Mar 12, 2003
| That rock looks incredibly cool! What a beautiful picture! I found a wall just like that in the backcountry of Zion once, severely huecoed and severely overhanging. It was that same deep red color, too. I've always wanted to go back and develop the wall. Good pic, I'm inspired! |
By Magic Fingers
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 2, 2003
| Bring bug spray, lots and lots of bug spray. Maybe a mesh tent with a little rip to belay the rope through. The routes are sooooooo worth it though. in the shade too. |
By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.10b
| Full on killer route! Seemed like about a .10b. Very steep but HUGE hand holds. I got a flapper in the palm of my hand from this route. The large hueco to the left of the 5th bolt is big enough for me to stand up in. Great rest.
7 bolts with rappel bolts for the anchors. The second bolt is located in one of the huecos so a longer draw would be a good idea to keep your biner off the edge. |
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 19, 2007
rating: 5.10c
| this route is visibly impressive, the color hurt my eyes. the features were a playground of big moves and hugely fun climbing. it requires high endurance and some creative thinking to discover rests. i felt like i was transported to mars on this route. |
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 19, 2007
| The holds are so big that if this thing were vertical it'd be 5.6 (at least going by my local gym — I've never met a vertical 5.6 in the wild).
As it is, about 10-15 degrees overhanging, couple of kneebar rests, and I was still gasping at the end. |
By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Dec 10, 2008
| please bring two quicklinks and two rap rings to fix on these anchors, it sounds like people have stolen the carabiners off the Metolius Rap Hangers.
This route is so steep it would be nasty to try to clean it on rappel
thanks!
Great route! |
By Todd Gardner
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 30, 2009
rating: 5.10d
| Amazing sandstone huecoes. Positive holds and pumpy. There is a couple spots with tricky feet and burly lybacks. Great climb 10d sustained with a kneebar rest about bolt 3 or 4. |
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 26, 2009
| Fantastic and worth the 45 minute nature hike!! |
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Oct 3, 2011
| There is now a 3 bolt extension after the first anchors on this route, making it a 11- probably to a 2nd set of anchors. Not much chalk up there on this section. A 70m is enough for the whole thing. |
By Chris KIlpatrick
Feb 7, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| Great route and the area is well worth the hike up |
By JeffL
Sep 18, 2012
| Amazing flow and well bolted. This it's the best single pitch sport route i have ever climbed! The approach is long but beautiful! |
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