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South Fork
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 
1/2 Route, AKA Unknown S 
Altered States T 
Arete Sport Climb T 
Center Route T 
Dost Mitra S 
Expecting T 
Fred Beckey T 
Hall of Smears S 
High Noon S 
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 
Hueco Direct Start T 
Hueco Traverse S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
I Stab Ourselves S 
Last Rites T 
Namaste S 
Pins and Needles S 
Pulp Friction S 
Sand Surfin' S 
Self Abuse S 
Shotgun T 
Southern Comfort T 
Spiderfinger T 
Tail Of The Cock T 
Tango T 
Touch Me Fall T 
Twins Paradox S 
Xanadu T 
Yahweh T 
Unsorted Routes:

1/2 Route, AKA Unknown 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Conrad Anker?
Page Views: 14,806
Submitted By: George Bell on Apr 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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Bill leading the cool huecoed route.
Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the "warm-up" route left of Huecos Rancheros and Namaste. It is shorter and only requires one rope.

Crank up overhanging huecos to the anchor.

All routes on this wall were established ground up placing bolts hanging off hooks!


Protection 

7 bolts, 3 bolt anchor with carabiners.


Location 

This is the first bolted route from the left. It starts on a series of ladder rung-like horizontal features.



Photos of 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
Ben getting pumped and John getting bitten by black flies.
Ben getting pumped and John getting bitten by blac...
Just one of a few great rests
Just one of a few great rests
Not a slab climb!
Not a slab climb!
Erika Kozera on 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (10d).
Erika Kozera on 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (10d).
lots of rests, arm-bars, knee bars, and the occasional for rent sign.
lots of rests, arm-bars, knee bars, and the occasi...
beautiful color contrasting ecosystem
beautiful color contrasting ecosystem
1/2 route
1/2 route
Angus
Angus
Really great and photogenic route.. A little sandy though
Really great and photogenic route.. A little sandy...
Angus
Angus
Sandy buckets.
Sandy buckets.
on-sight go..
on-sight go..
The door to this 10+. Perin Blanchard starts his journey with Walt belaying.
The door to this 10+. Perin Blanchard starts his j...
amazing route...sandy, but amazing.
amazing route...sandy, but amazing.
Angus
Angus
Angus
Angus
Classic!!!
Classic!!!
The prettiest rock you can imagine...
The prettiest rock you can imagine...
Angus
Angus
Erika Kozera on 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (10d).
Erika Kozera on 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (10d).
Instant Classic
Instant Classic
Comments on 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 4, 2014
By Dan Russell
Mar 12, 2003

That rock looks incredibly cool! What a beautiful picture! I found a wall just like that in the backcountry of Zion once, severely huecoed and severely overhanging. It was that same deep red color, too. I've always wanted to go back and develop the wall. Good pic, I'm inspired!

By Magic Fingers
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 2, 2003

Bring bug spray, lots and lots of bug spray. Maybe a mesh tent with a little rip to belay the rope through. The routes are sooooooo worth it though. in the shade too.

By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Full on killer route! Seemed like about a .10b. Very steep but HUGE hand holds. I got a flapper in the palm of my hand from this route. The large hueco to the left of the 5th bolt is big enough for me to stand up in. Great rest.

7 bolts with rappel bolts for the anchors. The second bolt is located in one of the huecos so a longer draw would be a good idea to keep your biner off the edge.

By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 19, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

this route is visibly impressive, the color hurt my eyes. the features were a playground of big moves and hugely fun climbing. it requires high endurance and some creative thinking to discover rests. i felt like i was transported to mars on this route.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 19, 2007

The holds are so big that if this thing were vertical it'd be 5.6 (at least going by my local gym — I've never met a vertical 5.6 in the wild).

As it is, about 10-15 degrees overhanging, couple of kneebar rests, and I was still gasping at the end.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 22, 2007



Video of Half Route. Also has a little footage of Huecos Rancheros.

By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Dec 10, 2008

please bring two quicklinks and two rap rings to fix on these anchors, it sounds like people have stolen the carabiners off the Metolius Rap Hangers.

This route is so steep it would be nasty to try to clean it on rappel

thanks!

Great route!

By Todd Gardner
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 30, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Amazing sandstone huecoes. Positive holds and pumpy. There is a couple spots with tricky feet and burly lybacks. Great climb 10d sustained with a kneebar rest about bolt 3 or 4.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 26, 2009

Fantastic and worth the 45 minute nature hike!!

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Oct 3, 2011

There is now a 3 bolt extension after the first anchors on this route, making it a 11- probably to a 2nd set of anchors. Not much chalk up there on this section. A 70m is enough for the whole thing.

By Chris KIlpatrick
Feb 7, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great route and the area is well worth the hike up

By JeffL
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 18, 2012

Amazing flow and well bolted. This it's the best single pitch sport route i have ever climbed! The approach is long but beautiful!

By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Don't let the above comments fool you into thinking the extension is easy. I would say it felt harder than Namaste I OS both routes but the crux moves on this extension felt harder. Namaste felt easier. But I wouldn't call this climb a 5.12 its more of a harder 5.11. Holds are good on extension. Yes there isn't much chalk but super fun moves up high.

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Dec 31, 2013

I'd agree with Pat Mac, the extension felt pretty hard, definitely in the harder 11's. I remember thinking 11+ when I got done. That said the extension was my favorite part of the route.

By Leif E
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

this is definitely the best and most fun 5.10 I've ever been on! also I'd consider it an 11a if you climb it without using any of the rests! awesomely awesome route!