11c Toprope Arete  5.11c

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Bryan G on Jan 15, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a cool toprope climb with interesting moves that starts out of the big chimney on the first pitch of Reed's Regular Route. To set up the toprope, climb the first pitch of Reed's Regular and then traverse over to the bolted anchor out on the edge of the steep arete.

The climb begins on right-trending rail that comes out of the back of the chimney. Stem to get as high as you can on this rail and then hug the rail and the arete and work your feet on some edges to get up to a jug at the top of the rail. From here you throw a foot on the rail and rock over on it and make a long and desperate reach up left to a crimp. This is the crux. Above this is easier but still challenging face climbing to the top of the buttress.

Protection 

Pro to 2" or whatever you think you need to lead one of the first pitch starting variations of Reed's Regular.