Winter Crags

My partner and I are driving from California to Texas. We will be driving through AZ and NM the second and third week of December. I was hoping to get some beta for warm crags. Multipitch (trad or sport) and single pitch sport are the focus. Also, anything one must see on a road trip through either state would be appreciated.
Thanks!

where in Texas are you going?
EDIT: what cities in NM and AZ are you driving through as well?

We're visiting friends in Austin before making our way across the border and driving through Mex and Central America for the winter.
Don't have solid plan for AZ and NM but we will be coming from the Jtree area, most likely taking 10.
We aren't too concerned with zigging and zagging though, getting as much out of the journey as possible.

Driving I-10 makes Cochise an obvious choice. Big domes and easy camping. Try Sheepshead for ease of access and late starts on the west facing rock.

Before you arrive in Phoenix, near Salome, there is 1,000' volcanic monolith, Courthouse Rock. There are a few routes on it. Good way to spend an easy day. Plus you can stop in Eldorado Hot Springs (commercial) in Tonopah on your way to town.

Mt. Lemmon is another good choice while passing by Tucson. Varied climbing and easy access/camping.

Thanks for that. I know there is a pretty new Mt. Lemmon guidebook, any other guides you recommend?

Bob Kerry's guide, though outdated, is good for Cochise. Geir has a book and PDF for Cochise toofasttopos.com/ .

The other Cochise guide is still in production.

If you are bouldering, the Marty Karabin guides are by far the most helpful thing you can get

Perfect time of the year to swing by Homestead.

mountainproject.com/v/the-h…

Milagrosa near the base of Mount Lemmon is a great winter sport climbing crag. The Dry is good for (very) warm winter limestone sport climbing. While primarily a bouldering destination, although there are some classic multi pitch trad routes, you can't pass up Hueco Tanks if you're coming through on the 10.

Be careful what time of the year you show up at Hueco tanks. I know between christmas and new years Hueco tanks is a zoo. The kind of Zoo where if you don't have reservations you can get up at 4:00am, get in line, wait 6 hours and still not get in. Even if you're not into bordering this pace is pretty cool, and winter temps here are great. There are a couple multi pitch climbs as well.

While you're in Austin, really the only place to go is Enchanted rock which has some nice friction slab climbs and some short Burly crack climbs with sharp rock at Buzzards roost. If you're feeling slimy-touched limestone sport check out Reimers ranch, can't say I recommend it though. it'll roughly be 55 degree in Texas, which is perfect if the sun comes out.

Non climbing related, Carlsbad Caverns is about 2 hours east of El Paso and definitely worth checking out if you've never done that before. That cave is massive! and a national landmark for a reason.

If you feel like hiking the tallest peak in Texas, Check out Guadalupe mountains National park (pretty close to Carlsbad Caverns). It can be done in half a day if you're fast. Not a bad hike, great view from the top.

Maybe way off base but just in case your into this kinda thing, be careful driving through El paso with weed of other drugs (if that's you're thing). There are check points run by the U.S. border patrol with drug dogs outside El paso on all the major highways (at least on I-10 and highway 62).

manuel rangel wrote:Bob Kerry's guide, though outdated, is good for Cochise. Geir has a book and PDF for Cochise toofasttopos.com/ . The other Cochise guide is still in production.

This is why I spend my winters on Mt. Lemmon!

Is the guidebook available locally? don't see the point in paying for shipping and I would like to see what I'm getting before dropping 45$.

simplyput wrote:Is the guidebook available locally? don't see the point in paying for shipping and I would like to see what I'm getting before dropping 45$.

Cochise is a must stop! Sheepshead is very accessible and most of the routes are adventure sport mulitpitch. The towns of Tombstone and Bisbee are fun to check out for a little while too.

Las Cruces has good winter climbing as well. The Organs have some good multi pitch trad routes. The climbing can be adventurous and some of the approaches difficult. I would recommend anything on the Tooth. It has a fairly easy approach, is sunny and probably the best rock in the mountain range. Lambda Wall and Southern Comfort Wall have sunny aspects and shorter approaches and trad routes. The Checkerboard Wall in the Dona Ana's has a bunch of moderate multi pitch routes, an easy approach and morning sun. There is plenty of free camping all around the areas.

Hueco Tanks is definitely worth a stop! The park can be busy and frustrating this time of year but it's not not far off of I-10 so worth a shot. It's on the way to Carlsbad Caverns and some sport climbing areas in the Guadalupes as well.

Are you looking for partners or beta?

When will you be around? I am always looking for partners but will be gone Dec. 12-30

Mostly looking for beta, though if someone wants to show my partner and I around that's always cool too.