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BRC vs Movement vs ???

Original Post
khalifornia · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

It's getting cold out. I haven't belonged to a gym since I was in high school YEARS AGO in New Paltz and belonged to the Inner Wall. It's been almost a decade since I've pulled on plastic with any regularity. Maybe a day every year or two.

I've been to BRC once, and was impressed, but I don't have much to compare it to. When I was climbing indoors regularly in NY, the gym was just a garage with plywood walls and greasy holds. Now there are weights, machines, autobelays... It was different!

I'd like to progress instead of stagnate this winter. And I want my money to be worth it. I am 99% a trad climber. Is their more of a trad community at either one of these gyms? What's the vibe of each?

I'm 35 and my goal is to break through that Eldo 5.10 barrier and I think getting strong this winter can set me up for success.

And why isn't there a gym in Longmont yet. Business opportunity?

David Ponak · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 10

There is the rec center in Longmont - I "boulder" there some mornings before I have to be at work at 7, great deal for close, cheap, and convenient. There is 2 auto-belays and the staff will belay you but the hours for anything not bouldering are evening/weekend only. I haven't been to Movement but BRC is great to get a workout in since they have way more auto-belays compared to other gyms from the research I've done. I'm not that social but I recognize a lot of older trad climbers going there. I'm the same age and have somewhat similar goals, if I sign back up at BRC for a couple months maybe I'll hit you up.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 619

What's your schedule like? Movement is crazy busy on weekday nights. I have a hard time dealing with it (eh, I have a hard time with lots of people and loudness in general - it's claustrophobic).

But weekday mornings, it rules.

In my highschool days, I went to Prime Climb in CT a lot. Kinda the same thing: lots of greasy holds, but I thought they were pretty innovative for the late nineties.

There's all sorts of people there, but I would say there's also a lot of pretty serious sport climbers/boulderers. There's plenty of Hayden Kennedy's there, too.

It's just things bolted on the walls to play on, ya know ;)

David House · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 453

I'll put in a plug for the Spot for two reason, the coursesetting is fantastic (even on the easier problems) and the social scene is more laid back. I'll rarely go to the BRC without a partner, but at the spot I often wind up chatting with strangers about beta. Movement is a nice facility, but I find the routes below 5.11 are less thought provoking than the harder routes. BRC probably has the biggest trad scene, but it hard to know what that really means indoors. Whatever gets you motivated to get to the gym is the best, consistency will bring the most benefits come Spring!

Alex Zachrel · · Morgantown, West Virginia · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 50

I'm a big fan of the BRC, it has the typical "gym community" scene where youll see the same people often, there are also cool crack features to practice technique and lap with the auto belays. The route turnover at BRC is really good as well, but I haven't been to movement enough to compare the two. Movement's atmosphere seemed a little "sporty" to me, for whatever thats worth. And with a BRC membership you can visit The Spot once a month so thats fun.

khalifornia · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone- this is exactly the feedback I was looking for.

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

I've climbed at both rockin and jamins, earth treks, brc, the spot, and movement Denver and Boulder. My favorite is movement Boulder. The routes are always fun, boulder and sport. It does get crowded though; plan on bringing your own rope if going between say 5 and 8.

The R&js were fun but lacked variety I thought. Earthtreks routes seem odd but tall and the people seem more recreational, less lifestyle. Brc was small with little variety.

Rocko · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 5

Movement Boulder. The biggest problem is the parking tho.

If you can find a place to park...take a class when the walls get too crowded, then resume after the rush.

Also, looking to be consistent this winter. Thumbs up.

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 121

Been a part of all three. BRC has the best route setting and the autobelays. Movement has a lot of classes, and really good setting in general. The Spot does phases with good setting and then around comp season, abandons that. Plus their equipment upstairs is junk. They have the treadwall but they don't change it more than once or twice per year.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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