Mystery Route on Hot Wing Buttress
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
FA: | 2014 or 2015 |
Page Views: | 1,100 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | BirminghamBen on Oct 3, 2015 |
Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
This route starts at the lower right margin of the Hot Wing Buttress on erosional edges and horizontals. Four or five bolts lead off of the ground, up and around the arete on a rampish-cracky section, then through a awkward roof/slot.
Once the slot is pulled, a distinct second section requires a high-step off of the ledge and then a couple body lengths of slab to jugs. Beware the ledge-fall here.
Then, once on the second major ledge, one is faced with a nice crack to the right or a blank bolted face to the left. The lone bolt can also be used as a clean top-out from the crack; a directional and last piece before the ring anchors to the left.
If one continues up the crack to the trough, anchors are not nearby.
I discovered this route in October 2015. It is quite good and I don't know who put it up. It is fairly new. Any info, please add.
Once the slot is pulled, a distinct second section requires a high-step off of the ledge and then a couple body lengths of slab to jugs. Beware the ledge-fall here.
Then, once on the second major ledge, one is faced with a nice crack to the right or a blank bolted face to the left. The lone bolt can also be used as a clean top-out from the crack; a directional and last piece before the ring anchors to the left.
If one continues up the crack to the trough, anchors are not nearby.
I discovered this route in October 2015. It is quite good and I don't know who put it up. It is fairly new. Any info, please add.
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