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Top roping at RRG

Original Post
matvey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 55

I know, I know, gotta learn how to lead... But I probably won't before tomorrow, when I'll be near Muir Valley. Are there any spots where the top is easily accessible for setting up anchors for some fun TR climbs in the 5.8-5.11 range?

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

You can walk on top of the short slab wall at practice wall in Muir, there are 5 or 6 routes you can set up from there they all have bolted anchors. That's really about it for Muir.

Mike Collins · · Northampton, MA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

the motherlode is pretty good for top-roping also.

Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 491

The vast majority of anchors for climbs there are not accessible from above. Your best bet is probably to politely ask if a group is willing to pull your rope up to an anchor after they are done with it, leaving a top-rope for you to use.

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

Another option would be to hire a guide for the day, they can help you get started lead climbing too if you desire. KRAG and Red River Outdoors are both great outfits.

Nathan Flaim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

I'll second the opinion above about hiring a guide. A good guide will put you on more top ropes in a day than you can handle. Better yet, they can help you cherry pick the best lines. Infinitely better to spend your day climbing quality routes, safely equipped, than to wander around looking for top roping opportunities that are nearly nonexistent. You may even find a guide qualified to teach you the basics of leading, and to help you develop a solid foundation of skills that will pay huge dividends as you begin leading on your own. I'll put in a plug for the gents at Kentucky Rock and Adventure Guides (KRAG). They are located at the Skybridge Station where you can find inexpensive lodging, good food, a small gear shop, and top notch guides. Website kragky.com

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285

Save your money and go to Bruise Bros or The shire...both places are likely where a guide will take you

Nathan Flaim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

There is definitely NO access to anchors for top roping at bruise brothers unless you first lead the routes. (Or have another party hang your rope). Not sure about the shire, but I'm pretty sure it's the same story.

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

The New River Gorge has a good amount of top accessible anchors, especially from the endless wall trail.

Chris Chaney · · Stanton, Kentucky · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 5,046

I went through this when I was trying to learn to climb. It sucks that almost no one will give you a straight answer.

I grew up fifteen minutes from the Red. I asked local hardman Chris Snyder where I could top rope and his snide answer was "The New." But the painful truth is that the geology and topography lf the Red do not make it conducive to top roping.

One of the best things to do (as has been suggested) is to head up to a wall with your gear and a trusted partner and politely ask another party if you can clean a route for them and put your rope up. This works if you're 100% confident cleaning bolted routes. Alternately you can just ask them to do it for you.

The real problem with both of the scenarios is you have to trust a stranger with your life.

Hiring a guide can be a hassle and pricey, but in the long run is a good investment. How much is your life worth?

And then there is the adventurous path. There are a lot of trad routes you can hike or scramble to the top of if you're determined. The left end of Long Wall comes to mind. Half Moon USED TO BE an okay top roping area. All the trees are gone now. Princess Arch area works for top roping but the routes tend to be sandy. The Dragon's Wing ledge at Eagle's Nest lends itself to top roping but its airy and high and there's nothing easier than 5.8

To be able to successfully top rope in the Red you'll likely need 50 to 100 feet of rope just for your anchor and/or a trad rack to build anchors.

In short, its tough to top rope in the Red.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
TomCaldwell wrote:The New River Gorge has a good amount of top accessible anchors, especially from the endless wall trail.
How is this at all useful for the OP who was going to be at RRG?
Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623
Marc801 wrote: How is this at all useful for the OP who was going to be at RRG?
It is not that far from the RRG. Since the RRG doesn't have any top rope anchors, maybe he could switch locations. How is your question at all useful to the OP?
matvey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 55

Thanks for all the input!

I ended up doing a few of the routes on the practice wall and then walking around and staring at experienced climbers :)

I'm taking a lead class some time this month, so next time I'm there, I'll definitely lead.

Chris Ousley · · Cincinnati · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

bedtime for bonzo has a scramble built into it, you can find it on here pretty easy, just gonna need long ropes and probly have to rap to the chains to build an anchor

Theres like three short climbs you could tr from the first pitch or get on top the wall

if you dont know how to ascend you might be left dangling tho... lmfao 

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

Learn how to stick clip up a route. Climb any route in the Red on TR using this method.

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

Seems like said guide gave useful advice related to the OP, which the OP seemed to have taken and had a good time, only to have Jaggy come around 6 years later to add their valuable 2 cents.

Crankster1 Waters · · Winchester, KY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Princess Arch need some webbing and pad the trees, several options at a decent grade variety, if your comfortable with rapping to anchors Military would offer some accessible options as does Purple Valley

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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