Best Climbing in the Caribbean?

My climbing partner and I are trying to plan a trip in January. We're trying to find a good compromise between a relaxing tropical beach-cation and some kickass climbing.

Where is the best place to do both? Preferably in the Caribbean but we're open to other options (central America). We would probably stick to sport just to cut down on baggage weight. We can both lead up to about 5.10c/d

Thanks ahead of time and happy holidays!

Check out Caymen Brac and John Byrnes' place (a MP admin): climbcaymanbrac.com

Haven't been but Virgin Gorda looks like an awesome balance of climbing and beaching.

Mostly bouldering and TR I think so you could actually get away with shoes and chalk to really keep in simple.

It's on my to do list, check it out and share!

Been to virgin gorda many times. It's a chore to get there...2-3 flights and a long ass boat ride. Try somewhere else. The bouldering is high ball.

Cuba?

Go to Haiti

I've heard great things about Puerto Rico from some pretty reliable climbers. Nothing too long but plenty of sport routes spread through the island to keep you busy for a short vacation.

Allen Sanderson wrote:Check out Caymen Brac and John Byrnes' place (a MP admin): climbcaymanbrac.com

Thanks for the recommendation Allen! What is the best way to get to Cayman Brac? Take a flight to Grand Cayman and find an island hopper or is there a direct route? Any idea what the cost may be of getting there?

Maggie Jaicomo wrote: Thanks for the recommendation Allen! What is the best way to get to Cayman Brac? Take a flight to Grand Cayman and find an island hopper or is there a direct route? Any idea what the cost may be of getting there?

There's lots of flights to Grand Cayman from major cities all over the U.S. on all the major airlines (American, United, JetBlue, etc.). From there, Cayman Airways flies to the Brac every 90minutes or so, either with Turboprops or jets. There's also a direct flight from Miami on certain days.

Cost depends on where you're coming from. Kentucky? Since there's so many ways to get there, I always use a travel agent. Try:

Travel agent Reggie Kirkconnell. Toll free (866) 843-2722, bracvacations@yahoo.com. M-F 9am-5pm, Sat 9-12 Eastern time.

Tell him I sent you ;-)

Ummmm. Virgin Gorda looks pretty fucking amazing.

I'll always plug for Puerto Rico. It's US, but feels very different than the mainland. It's easy to get to, the rock is great, and the beaches aren't bad. South side ones are calmer.

Rincon has a great expat/surfer/yoga community.

Bayamon (Enrique Monagas Park)is 20 minutes from the airport and Old San Juan.

The best beaches that I've been to there are on Vieques and Culebra, smaller islands just off the E coast. Each of those islands also has a tiny bit of rock, but not really worth even bringing shoes for, especially compared to the sweet limestone on PR.

Maybe climb for a few days, then go beach it?

In San Juan, the Dreamcatcher Guesthouse is nice. On Vieques, the Flamboyan Guest House is the spot.

Virgin Gorda is unique. Boulders and beach, all together. The rock reminded me of J Tree.

St Martin/Maarten has a little rock, but it's not really developed. It is a fun island.

St Barths is covered in cool volcanic rock, but I don't know of any development. Anyone???

There's some nice limestone above the ocean on Anguilla. DWS potential.

Saba allegedly has some climbing, but access might be tricky. It's a cool island. Good hikes, crazy airport, no real beach.

Aruba's rock is dirty.

Barbados has nice beachside bouldering.

In the Bahamas, Eleuthera has some DWS, but it's mostly sharp, and best accessed by boat.

Cayman looks good. I'll get there someday...

Cuba's going to be sweet when it opens up.

That's the island beta spray for today.

Have fun in the sun!

jedeye wrote:I'll always plug for Puerto Rico. LOTS DELETED Cuba's going to be sweet when it opens up. That's the island beta spray for today. Have fun in the sun!

Just remember that, with the exception of Cayman Brac, the stainless bolts in ALL of these places are suspect, if not downright deadly.

Cayman Brac is the only island in the Caribbean with 100% titanium bolts.

Jed knows.

I'll put in another plug for the Bahamas though. The place will blow your mind. Get a few of your friends together, fly into North Eleuthera ELH and stay here ( vrbo.com/3748339ha):

Which is a short swim/paddle/sup from this( mountainproject.com/v/stala…):


Or maybe you've got some ladies with you that want more beach time than climb time? Stay here ( vrbo.com/400748):


Which has amazing snorkeling and a good small 11' DWS wall in the back yard( mountainproject.com/v/annie…):


If you're a surfer and lucky, a 15 minute walk across the island will get you to some awesome surf:


Pete in Gregorytown has boards to rent.

The rock is VERY sharp, but only on top. The cliff faces are perfect. Its limestone, but with the texture of untouched sandstone.

Chris definitely has the primo beta on Eleuthera. Again, a boat opens up a lot of the potential there.

And John is right on about bolts. Just 'cause they look good doesn't mean they are. His efforts on Cayman should be applauded and supported, by going and staying at his place.

Does anyone know if there's been any bolt upgrading in Puerto Rico in the past year or so? It seems like most of the development efforts there lately have been focused on bouldering, which sidesteps the corrosion problem.

jedeye wrote: Does anyone know if there's been any bolt upgrading in Puerto Rico in the past year or so? It seems like most of the development efforts there lately have been focused on bouldering, which sidesteps the corrosion problem.

I've heard that there has been quite a bit of bolt replacement going on in the past year or two, unfortunately, I've also heard that it's been all or mostly with stainless, so it won't last very long.

I would second Cayman Brac. Great diving, easy going location, spectacular climbing on great limestone above the ocean.

Just got back from Puerto Rico. Surfed at Rincon and climbed at Rosario (about 1.2 hours from Rincon). Spent one day at Firulay Wall. Very steep, high quality limestone with what looked like brand new, .5 inch SS bolts. Only about a day's worth of climbing at that wall, but was quite good.

Hi, 

I live in St.Maarten, within easy access to St.Barths, Anguilla and Saba.

I only know of a few dws spots here (off Maho beach, over in Pointe Blanch and off bay Rouge) but not really good ones.. mostly sharp rock to get onto the wall then loose rock above. 

The only bouldering spot i found is above oytser bay.. short and too easy or too hard (my limit is around 7a tops).. only one route I've found that was good for me (I'd say it's a short 6a).

I hear all kinds of legends about climbing in Saba but no one can tell me anything specific. Even locals don't know of it, there's only a few old threads that suggest there is something good. Anyone can help me with that?

There was a mention of a pontentially good limestone rock wall for dws in Anguilla. Can someone tell me the exact location on that rock?

Also anyone knows any news on St.Barts rock climbing please please please help!

jedeye wrote: Chris definitely has the primo beta on Eleuthera. Again, a boat opens up a lot of the potential there. And John is right on about bolts. Just 'cause they look good doesn't mean they are. His efforts on Cayman should be applauded and supported, by going and staying at his place. Does anyone know if there's been any bolt upgrading in Puerto Rico in the past year or so? It seems like most of the development efforts there lately have been focused on bouldering, which sidesteps the corrosion problem.

Thanks Jedeye.  And perhaps there's one other thing that puts Cayman Brac above the others...  a free, up-to-date guide available on-line.   

Went to Brac 18 years ago and it was awesome!

Got married and climbed really sweet sea cliffs with giant turtles swimming past our hanging belay.

Stayed at John's place and found it perfect-will probably be looking you up for our 20th in 2019!

I second the sentiments on Cayman Brac and Mr. John Byrnes. Both are excellent experiences