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Crags near LA

Original Post
Michael Beasley · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 90

Hey guys, I am going to be in Long Beach for a few days over Thanksgiving. I am not going to have time to go to j tree so I'm looking for some close crags, within an hour or maybe 2. So far I'm looking at Echo cliffs and Texas canyon. Between the two which has the best climbing. Not bringing my rack so all sport, like the idea of getting some multipitch in but that's not a deal breaker. So far I'm leaning towards echo cliffs. Thanks for the help.

Calder Phillips · · Oroville, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 121

Echo cliffs is my local go-crag, one hour from the front door to being tied in. So I'm partial to Echo. Though I have been to Texas Canyon twice and would say that regardless of where I live, Echo is a FAR superior crag. Message me if you're looking for a partner when you're in town.

Michael Beasley · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 90

I would definitely take you up on that but it looks like I'm going to be taking my girlfriends family out there. Thanks for the offer though. Do you think it will be busy on black friday?

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Echo if fun, but if you can find a little more time to drive further (and you may not), Joshua Tree is a whole lot better. Don't get me wrong. I may try to drag my kids out to Echo (or Malibu) one day Thanksgiving week, but Josh is on a whole nother plane. There are sport climbs too. Not a sport area clearly, but you can find info on that if that's what you're limited to.

Malibu Creek is nice as well. Not as much or as tall as Echo, but I really like the setting. Riverside Quarry is a little farther than Echo, but good as well. Bleak setting but decent climbing.

Michael Beasley · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 90

Part of me really wants to just drive to j tree but traffic is going to be crazy, the routes will be crowded and if I'm going to j tree I'm brining my rack so then I have to figure that out. With bringing my girlfriends family a closer not so big of deal crag just makes more sense. I usually go to j tree when in town so it will be nice to change it up.

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

I can't really comment on any other the areas closer to LA but I would not bring my family to the Riverside quarry. The climbing is great but it can be kinda a shady place to be. There are homeless people that live there, trash all over the place, and usually smells like several different types of feces.

Michael Beasley · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 90

Thanks for the tip Matt that is the exact opposite of where I would enjoy climbing

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Sorry. Missed the family part. My bad. Echo or Malibu, though for Malibu they'd have to do the traverse into the canyon. Don't want pops falling into the brink.

Michael Beasley · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 90

I think echo is my best bet. How's the approch to echo and also to easy street. I'm thinking the left flank and Java wall is where we will climb but incase that is busy then maybe continue down to easy st.

Steven Lee · · El Segundo, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 385

The approach might be a little difficult if you're bringing along folks that don't do much hiking or climbing.

The trail is a little strenuous (not too bad though). Going into the canyon/gully is a little steep and you want to be sure footed. There's a little scrambling and one portion with about a 8ft via ferrata ladder and fixed rope. It's not bad for climbers (maybe a little tiring at the end of the day), but for non-outdoorsy people it might be hard.

Michael Beasley · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 90

Man. That approach is starting to worry me now. Calder I might take you up on that offer. I'll have to talk with her family and see what they are up for. Should I expect alot of traffic on black friday. Just wondering if we leave early enough and let them hike in at a really easy pace if I'll still have enough time for a full day of climbing.

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

Honestly, it sounds like you'd be best to just take them to Stoney Point and set up some top ropes for them on Mozart's. Then get someone to belay you while you work Maggie's Farm and Sculpture's Crack.

No hike unless they want to go see the summit.

Need some mid-longish slings/webbing/static.

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

Here is another option:
box springs
It is certainly not a destination crag but if you looking for place to go with a family a with no crowds this might work.

It is about a 10 to 15 minute easy walk to the crag. There are are a bunch of moderate bolted lines and top ropes, it's in a beautiful desert park and climbers rarely go here.

The down side the climbs are short (only 2 or 3 bolts) and there are only a few climbs over 5.10. Also, I am not sure how the traffic would be coming from long beach.

Steven Lee · · El Segundo, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 385

The approach took us about 30-40 min at a moderate pace.

Another alternative I might suggest is Saddle Peak (corpse wall):
mountainproject.com/v/saddl…

The approach isn't terrible; a pretty hike with 1 boulder to slide your butt down on. The times I've been there it hasn't been crowded at all. The anchors are accessible from the top if desired (easy walk). Bolts seemed to be in pretty good shape, and not too chossy

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

I've been to Tick Rock in Malibu. Scary first bolt on a route on the right side, and I liked it!

Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 917

If I was coming from Long beach I would rather go to Riverside Quarry vs Echo Cliffs. From door to the base of the route Riverside Quarry is way way shorter, plus you don't have to drive through the 405. The approach is like 5 minutes.

Michael Beasley · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 90

People actually climb at the riverside quarry? Maufactured routes, graffiti, trash everywhere. Id rather go to the local gym. Sorry I know that comes off bad I just don't think I could ever climb somewhere like that. I do appreciate the suggestion tho.

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155
Michael Beasley wrote:People actually climb at the riverside quarry? Maufactured routes, graffiti, trash everywhere. Id rather go to the local gym. Sorry I know that comes off bad I just don't think I could ever climb somewhere like that. I do appreciate the suggestion tho.
haha yeah i thought that too, until i started climbing there. Apart form the poor scenery and trash, the climbing itself is really stellar and in high concentration. With such great climbing, looking past the shitty part isn't so bad.
jedeye · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 18

It's been a while, but aren't there areas at Malibu that don't require a water crossing? Planet of the Apes Wall is so much fun, just to get on some rock, and it's easy for people to sit and watch there. The whole park is so beautiful and appealing in so many ways.

Have fun!

Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 917
Michael Beasley wrote:People actually climb at the riverside quarry? Maufactured routes, graffiti, trash everywhere. Id rather go to the local gym. Sorry I know that comes off bad I just don't think I could ever climb somewhere like that. I do appreciate the suggestion tho.
Have you ever heard "don't knock it, till you try it?"

that goes for the quarry...you must be crazy to rather climb at a gym than there. Plenty of 4 star routes in the 5.11-5.12 range that are far better than most sport routes I've been to in comparison to other sport crags around the area...in terms of movement, style, height of the routes. Just look pass the graffiti and you're set. Most of the graffiti is only as high as 10 feet anyways. climb 10 feet and you won't see it anymore haha
G Halsne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 1,487

+1

I climb at all three of these crags regularly ( Quarry, Echo, Malibu )

Riverside is absolutely outstanding granite sport climbing. MANY 4-5 star routes, and some are long! Like 15-20 draws. Just not a ton in the sub 5.10 range. As for trash, its really not that bad. The fence went up and dumping has ebbed back a bit. Its actually relatively quiet unless a lot of climbers are there. Ive never seen a "Homeless person" there in my life. Graffiti is what it is, just ignore it. Like Jan says... climb 10 feet and your in another world. And I was there yesterday and the temps were SENDINGtastsic. 5-10 min casual approach.

Malibu on the other hand... That place can be a cesspool of the lowest common denominator. Literal bacteria reported on the news growing in the rock pool and plenty of trash and detritus built up in the creek. Then there's the "Hikers" who congregate at the rock pool. Its like a really bad, loud trashy spring break party. All of this for a tenth of the climbing of the quarry and echo, and even less of the quality. ( but yeah I still go there..lol ) Sometimes its quiet, like it was 15 years ago...

Echo wins in quantity of routes and a great quiet setting, but as mentioned, its the farther drive from long beach and the approach seems very long and then steep in the gulley for non climbers. Then you have to climb back out. I love echo! When I want to climb and get cardio and have all day.

If i've got a half day, I'll take riverside any day of the week. With the soft granite and grades, you will climb all day long with happy tips! You will have traffic in any direction depending on the time, and you are looking at 1-2 hours to the crag anywhere mentioned, give or take the approach time.

Have fun either way! you cant really go wrong if your up on something!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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