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New to the area

Original Post
James B · · Northfield, VT · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 5

Hello everyone,
I recently found out I will be moving to south central Missouri for work, so I was hoping to scout out some good climbing areas there in the . I currently climb sport and ice routes up in Vermont and New Hampshire. Due to financial reasons, the only rock pro I have are nuts, so i was wondering, is the rock there good for nuts or are they too soft?
I was also wondering, dose ice come in down there or should I part way with my tools later this season?
Any advice y'all can give me is greatly appreciated, and thank you.
-James

RawrkCrimer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 65

Dude. Welcome to Mo! The best climbing I've found in the area is Trapper's Camp in Osceola. Trappers has the best limestone i've seen in MO (and the best rock for that matter). Other places you might check out are the areas around Columbia and Warsaw. Haven't been there myself so can't attest to quality. By far the best climbing I've been to in the region is in Arkansas (Sam'sThrone/ HorshoeCanyonRanch/FontaineRed). Some surprisingly good bouldering outside of Sparta, Mo called Peter's Branch (plenty of vids featuring climbs on youtube), but the approach can be confusing. Good luck!

James B · · Northfield, VT · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 5

Sweet. thanks for info. sounds like i have to invest into some cams if i want to climb. are there a lot of sport route around or is it mostly TR or trad climbing?

Erik Kowalczyk · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2015 · Points: 46

Lots of sport and trad. I'd say 65% sport and 35% trad. If you go south to arkansas its a lot of both, several mixed routes down there. Great stone. If you have a set of draws, you can climb a ton of stuff, and only a single rack up to 3 or 4" should work for you. If you ever want to go out, PM me. We can climb some classics. I'm in Columbia now.

JD Borgeson · · Little Rock, AR · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 2,064

I don't know a ton about Missouri, but AR has essentially everything but ice (except occasionally). hit me up if you ever want to make a trip down: I have all the gear for trad, sport, bouldering, whatever.

Rigggs24 · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45

I lived in Columbia, MO for a couple years. i climbed a bunch at the local crag in Columbia, Capen Park. But that place was only really worth the 5 minute drive. There are some other small limestone crags in MO including Warsaw but to me they are more somewhere to go when u cant make the drive to Arkansas or Southern Illinois.

Arkansas is going to be your best bet. There is great climbing at HCR, Sams throne, and Mt. magazine. Additionally, depending on where u are exactly in MO, Jackson Falls in southern Illinois is also a pretty nice area and worth going to.

James B · · Northfield, VT · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 5

I'll be in the Fort Leonard Wood area, so its looks like I got an hour or two drive to good climbing. it will be nice to change it up the rocks from the NH granite and VT slate to soft limestone. Thanks for the heads up everyone. i really appreciate it.

Lukus · · St. Louis · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 100

What kind of climbing do you prefer? I have a few trad and boulder areas near there.

Ian Rogers · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 30

I go to school in Rolla, and I'm the president of our climbing club at Missouri S&T. We've got a chossy limestone crag at Devil's Elbow with ONE sport line, but mostly top rope potential. It's probably about 15 minutes from the fort. Plus, there's a lot of stuff on MP in the Truman Lake Area, along the Missouri River, and in the St Francis Range. But mostly we drive to southern illinois or northern arkansas for weekend trips. If you need a partner for an arkansas trip, our club gets down there every 3 weeks or so!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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