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California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Lower Merced Ri…
> Am. Pat & Jack Pinnacle
Desperado
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 23
votes
Routes in Am. Pat and Jack Pinnacle
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Antifa Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Heads T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Boneheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Book 'em Dano T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Desp-arete S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gay Bob's to extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gold Chains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mantel Illness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Mental than Mantel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My-Toe-Sis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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People's Court T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pussy Paws S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rocky Horror Show T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wart Hog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wedge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Ron Skelton, Dan McDevitt, Mark Tuttle (1989) |
| Page Views: | 2,428 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Oct 20, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A difficult sport climb up the steep face to the left of Desperate Straights.
Begin in the same chimney as Desperate Straights, then about 15ft up reach around the corner to clip a bolt. Climb out of the chimney and around the corner to a follow the arete past more bolts to another chimney. Either chimney or stem through a runout section to more bolts on the face under a roof. Undercling the bottom of the roof (crux, pretty stout for the grade) then mantel over the lip on huge knobs. Climb up past more big knobs and a couple more bolts to a bolted anchor on a sandy ledge.
The first part of the climb is contrived, hard, awkward and the rock is flakey, but turning the roof is wild and really defines the route, and the upper section is fun knob climbing as well.
Begin in the same chimney as Desperate Straights, then about 15ft up reach around the corner to clip a bolt. Climb out of the chimney and around the corner to a follow the arete past more bolts to another chimney. Either chimney or stem through a runout section to more bolts on the face under a roof. Undercling the bottom of the roof (crux, pretty stout for the grade) then mantel over the lip on huge knobs. Climb up past more big knobs and a couple more bolts to a bolted anchor on a sandy ledge.
The first part of the climb is contrived, hard, awkward and the rock is flakey, but turning the roof is wild and really defines the route, and the upper section is fun knob climbing as well.
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