Tendonitis From Belaying?

I have fought some issues with my left elbow since I started climbing and seem to have it more under control as of late.

Except Belaying. Belaying multiple times in a row or a long time makes it flare up, specifically paying out slack, worst with a GriGri but my ATC will trigger it sometimes. My friends by this point think it is very 'convenient'

Anyone have insight on different belay devices or techniques?

It sounds like you're talking about belaying a leader. I suppose anything repetitive could lead to an overuse injury.

At the more definitive end of this spectrum, I think it's pretty well recognized that pulling stiff ropes through a "guide mode" device i.e. bring a second/third climber up a pitch from above, can really do a number on your elbow(s). I heard a guide call this "Reverso Elbow".

Use yr other hand to belay ...

If yr right handed pretend yr left handed

;)

These:

hughston.com/hha/a.seven.htm

Are you warming up properly, stretching, doing resistance exercises (pushups help a lot), etc?

bearbreeder wrote:Use yr other hand to belay ... If yr right handed pretend yr left handed ;)

David Barbour wrote:Are you warming up properly, stretching, doing resistance exercises (pushups help a lot), etc?

haha...for real though, belaying aggravates tendonitis. so warm up before you belay.

David Barbour wrote:haha...for real though, belaying aggravates tendonitis. so warm up before you belay.

I have had issues with tendonitis caused by overuse for quite some time now. It has always come and gone. But there was quite a few times when belaying from the top of a climb (multi-pitch, hauling partners etc) that I've almost gotten "trigger finger" in my elbow. Like it locks up or something and then is very hesitant to open back up from the 90 bent to the 180 linear straight.

The one obvious with belaying is using the correct size carabiners. Being ambidextrous helps tremendously as well.

Then like others have mentioned, which I really should start doing, would be the warm up, cool down, stretching, generally taking good care of your body in a holistic mind, body, and soul approach with a lot of emphasis on the body if you wanna keep going.

After proof reading this it turns out I don't english too well haha

Great resource for anyone suffering from Tendonitis:

Healing Tendonitis