Old Anchors and Tat at Indian Creek (compiling a list of anchors that need upgrades)

Too Much Cake @ Supercrack has bolts, some without hangars, and a whole mess of tat. Also the anchors on "Anasazi" had some spinners.

P1 anchor on Sparkling Touch in the Bridger jacks could get a new bolt to replace the piton there which would clear up some of the tat. Also the rap anchor for Sparkling Touch could be improved too. It's some thin cord tied through some threads with some shitty pitons

Thanks, all those have been added.

Those Sparkling Touch anchors are def. on the list. That anchor and the star drives up top are in dire need of replacement!

cheers.

Luke Mehall wrote:Thanks, all those have been added. Those Sparkling Touch anchors are def. on the list. That anchor and the star drives up top are in dire need of replacement!

Yep!

Hey - ? for you, Luke.
I know the ASCA provides bolts/hangers. Are they also helping out with bits and batteries? Cord and chain? Links?

The ASCA helps out w/ all the hardware besides chains because it's too expensive to ship. They will reimburse for chain if people ask. We use our own drills, batteries etc.

Luke Mehall wrote:The ASCA helps out w/ all the hardware besides chains because it's too expensive to ship. They will reimburse for chain if people ask. We use our own drills, batteries etc.

Next Question then.
I admire the effort you guys are putting into this, and I know that it comes at a cost in $$$, time, and most of all opportunity.
I certainly use the resources there, but am always on a short trip visiting and have not had the opportunity to really contribute in a serious way like this.
I know that you are getting the hangers and bolts covered, but I know in Boulder, we still have a liability of drillbits and gas and of course, in time, batteries.

Sooo...

I'd like to help out. Do you have a paypal account of something else set up so that I (we? can put my (our? Hopefully others feel the same way?) can contribute from 'afar?'

Tony B! Thanks man. I'd recommend donating to ASCA lately, they hook us up so much and a little chain here and there on our dime is no biggie. We all actually enjoy it. Really appreciate the gesture! Keep posting up those routes that need some love errrbody!

Here's the link to donate to ASCA: safeclimbing.org/help.htm

Echo Pinnacle Free Window Route needs some love

Tony B wrote: I certainly use the resources there, but am always on a short trip visiting and have not had the opportunity to really contribute in a serious way like this.

What I've started doing specifically at the Creek is just carrying some painted chain and quicklinks in the pack to put on routes that need it. It takes no special skills or equipment, only takes a minute or 2, and it still greatly helps. Of course, donating to the ASCA is great too.

wishbone suspension at way rambo could use some chains. the most recent looking sling was from 2008 so i sacrificed a biner instead of trusting that.

Kevin Kent wrote: What I've started doing specifically at the Creek is just carrying some painted chain and quicklinks in the pack to put on routes that need it. It takes no special skills or equipment, only takes a minute or 2, and it still greatly helps. Of course, donating to the ASCA is great too.

I carry reddish/brown webbing.
I'm always afraid that chain will make more "snow angels" on the rock as are sometimes seen and have been reticent to use it. Granite is different, of course, but chain tends to visually beat up sandstone.
Any thoughts?

The anchors for the two unknown 5.10s just to the left of Hayley's Heyday on Blue Gramma need their shared anchor beefed up. Currently it's a drilled piton, bolt with odd hanger and good bolt all connected with tat.

I have also noticed this effect on the rock. I have been outfitting routes with stainless steel permadraws instead of chain.

For "Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge)" at Blue Grama, the crispy cord and sling really could use a swap out.

Really, anyone/everyone should be prepared to replace webbing/cord at the creek at any given time. Creek climbers: Please carry rust or brown-colored webbing and some links. Let the bolt and anchor replacing folks focus on the less mundane things if they can do that.

this isn't at the creek, but...

Kinder and Gentler @ Boundary wall, Canyonlands is missing a bolt for one of the anchors. I got up there and just saw a hanger attached to a bunch of frayed webbing, attached to single good bolt/hanger. The bolt got pulled out somehow?? Ended up downclimbing the whole thing.

Also, Circle of Quiet on the same wall needs new webbing, we didnt have any nor a knife, so i donated a sling.

The left bolt on Crappucino (Fin Wall) is loose.

The final anchor on Sunflower tower in the Bridger Jacks could use a bit of love. It's 4 decent looking drilled angles spread out over a meter or two with a nest of tat to bring them all together. We did our best to spruce it up with a cordallette but it only lasts so long...

Some (actually a lot) chain would spruce it up a lot.

Thank you Garrett. That one has needed some love for YEARS. I'll try to get to it this season, anyone out there that replaces bolts headed into the Bridgers?!?

It's on the list.

And, don't be shy to ask for the list if you're out there replacing bolts. We've got a lot of work done w/ ASCA over the last five years or so.

peace,
Luke

Meow Mix, Cat Wall: (2) 3/8'' wedgies, wiggly, with SMC hangers + decent chain