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The Erik Sloan ethics thread

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Stagg54 wrote: You are on of the few adults on this page.
Yep, another hitler-esque adult who just doesnt see the light at the end of the supertaco tunnel.

BTW, when is the "other guide" going to be ready for the public?
matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

I have tried to look through this thread and the other one. There seems to be a lot of half arguments, hearsay and name calling. I am actually interested in what Erik Sloan did to decide if I should buy his book in the future.

Can someone clearly and concisely explain, without personal attacks, what Erik did what were in poor form? If this explanation exists, please point me to it.

Ney Grant · · Pollock Pines, CA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 1,375
matt c. wrote:Can someone clearly and concisely explain, without personal attacks, what Erik did what were in poor form? If this explanation exists, please point me to it.
Yes, this started with a post on Supertopo, where someone essentially said, "Hey, strange but there are two new bolts in the middle of the first pitch of Book of Revelations, like a belay station in the middle of the pitch 40 feet above the ground". Erik replied that he did that and don't remove them or he'll just put them back. He said he put them there so people could practice aid climbing.

It exploded from there. Google is your friend - you can easily find that Erik has been the subject of some controversy for about a decade.
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Ney wrote: Yes, this started with a post on Supertopo, where someone essentially said, "Hey, strange but there are two new bolts in the middle of the first pitch of Book of Revelations, like a belay station in the middle of the pitch 40 feet above the ground". Erik replied that he did that and don't remove them or he'll just put them back. He said he put them there so people could practice aid climbing. It exploded from there. Google is your friend - you can easily find that Erik has been the subject of some controversy for about a decade.
Well, there are multiple older posts about the excessive tree cutting, excavating, heavy handed bolting on Ten days After, hammering/flattening of old bolts during replacement, and bolting around the crux of the GSR. It didn't "just start" with BOR.
Kyle MacKrell · · Zion NP · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

What a meaningless thread

K Weber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 15
Mike. wrote: Thanks to everyone discussing these issues – including all opinions.
Yeah right.

If JesseM has enough evidence to call out ES on the internet then he better back it up by making a case against him. If not then he should STFU.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Kyle MacKrell wrote:What a meaningless thread
Why?
Insert name · · Harts Location · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 46

Mike.

Since you rebolted with him why don't ypu give us some insight and come out as to who you are.

Your account seems to only pertain to this topic.

Are you talking the first alcove swing? Or do you mean when it was moved?

He wasn't arrested for limbing & he admitted to BOR. When the "ladders" were rebolted, wasn't there some sort of talk the Access fund or whoever he worked with? Maybe that is part of the accommodating to someone 5'7"?

Scott07 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

What did he get arrested for?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Scott07 wrote:What did he get arrested for?
What makes you think he was arrested?
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Scott07 wrote:What did he get arrested for?
the internet climber police from two districts have a warrant out for him, no arrest yet.
Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

No, we're simply asking him to stop being such a dick and quit retrobolting - there's a world of difference.

Scott07 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Oh just a few comments here and there and an other thread elsewhere. Carry-on now, I am going to stay out of this sh-t show

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Healyje wrote:No, we're simply asking him to stop being such a dick and quit retrobolting - there's a world of difference.
nah, you guys are crucifying him on the stake for some minor shit that most folks could easily get over. its personal.
JNE · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,110

T roper, pat yourself on the back for being the only person who actively condones Eriks retrobolting and very aggressive trimming practices, in addition to his very very nice community service of replacing junk hardware. Also, pat yourself on the back for being the one doubling down on the "you guys should be ostracized from your local communities" derp. You get to own that. The rest of us will just avoid his book (unless the retrobolting gets addressed here or elsewhere, yes we know it is mostly just extra bolts specifically intended to facilitate more climbers on the walls of Yosemite...), and go on with our lives ;)

Satchel Friedman · · Berkeley, ca · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0
JNE wrote:T roper, pat yourself on the back for being the only person who actively condones Eriks retrobolting and very aggressive trimming practices, in addition to his very very nice community service of replacing junk hardware. Also, pat yourself on the back for being the one doubling down on the "you guys should be ostracized from your local communities" derp. You get to own that. The rest of us will just avoid his book (unless the retrobolting gets addressed here or elsewhere, yes we know it is mostly just extra bolts specifically intended to facilitate more climbers on the walls of Yosemite...), and go on with our lives ;)
Poisoning the well, personal attacks. You may be right, but you argue like a child.
JNE · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,110
Poisoning the well, personal attacks... you argue like a child.

111!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!REFLECTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111111111111111111

I thoroughly posit that you are the one guilty of these things, so, I know you are but what am I? Lol.

In all seriousness though, I genuinely feel it is a bad thing to dumb down areas for the masses for the sole purpose of allowing more climbers into an already over-run environment. I think a better solution would be to develop and open some of the lesser known areas in the region.

If the retrobolting in this case was more accepted, it would not be getting done in a sketchy way like it is. Our wild places need to be treated with more respect than what is currently happening, and we need to welcome people who are willing to interact with respect and in a respectful manner. Feel free to mischaracterize and attack this perspective all you want, unfortunately for you, it won't make it illegitimate.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
JNE wrote:T roper, pat yourself on the back for being the only person who actively condones Eriks retrobolting and very aggressive trimming practices, in addition to his very very nice community service of replacing junk hardware. Also, pat yourself on the back for being the one doubling down on the "you guys should be ostracized from your local communities" derp. You get to own that. The rest of us will just avoid his book (unless the retrobolting gets addressed here or elsewhere, yes we know it is mostly just extra bolts specifically intended to facilitate more climbers on the walls of Yosemite...), and go on with our lives ;)
I'm sure the fine folks of the valley can take care of their problems without the internet missionaries help. I'm just a spectator to this debacle, a debacle that I've seen numerous times when the "bad guy" is about to release a new guide book.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
JNE wrote: Our wild places need to be treated with more respect than what is currently happening, and we need to welcome people who are willing to interact with respect and in a respectful manner.
Yosemite is a wild place thats for sure, the lines of cars and tourist buses, paved trails, lodges, fast food, ATMs and trash really make it that way.
Mike Watson · · SoCal · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 45
T Roper wrote: Yosemite is a wild place thats for sure, the lines of cars and tourist buses, paved trails, lodges, fast food, ATMs and trash really make it that way.
Serious question because you seem to really have a horse in this race. Do you support retrobolting routes in general?

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