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> Yunnan Province
> Lijiang Area
> Liming (黎明)
> S Valley
> Guardian
Flight of the Locusts
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 7
votes
Routes in The Guardian
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[Redacted] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Akhum-Rah T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Da-Nile T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Eagle-eyed Super Hawk S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Flight of the Locusts T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gift, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hieroglyphic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sahara T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scarab, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Sphinx, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Valley of the Kings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wing and a Prayer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Mike Dobie |
| Page Views: | 826 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ryder Stroud on Apr 18, 2015 |
| Admins: | Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
A hybrid crack and face climb, Flight of the Locusts is a short but techy route that will require a bit more sport-climbing-esque sequencing than most routes in Liming.
Start on the right leaning crack 8 feet left of Akmun-Rah and around 20 feet right of Brazen Hussie.
Awkwardly stem your way off the ground (groin stretches beforehand might help) until you are forced into the crack. Powerful locking yields a small stance on the left face. Combo face-crack climb your way up until the crack forms a corner. Crank out the hard moves into the corner and continue to the chains, being aware of the face to your left. The bolts will be at a pedestal just above.
FA-er Mike Dobie has also put a bolted extension above this finish, and is currently thought to be about .13a.
Start on the right leaning crack 8 feet left of Akmun-Rah and around 20 feet right of Brazen Hussie.
Awkwardly stem your way off the ground (groin stretches beforehand might help) until you are forced into the crack. Powerful locking yields a small stance on the left face. Combo face-crack climb your way up until the crack forms a corner. Crank out the hard moves into the corner and continue to the chains, being aware of the face to your left. The bolts will be at a pedestal just above.
FA-er Mike Dobie has also put a bolted extension above this finish, and is currently thought to be about .13a.
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