City of Rocks Superintendent Stops New Routing

Shane Rathbun wrote:As of October 23, 2015 I have voluntarily resigned my position as Climbing Ranger at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park out of my own free will.

Hope you are moving on to something better, and thanks for your service here in Idaho!

So should I cancel my plans to go to the City next year? Ominous hints, terse Climbing Ranger resignations and allusions to a nefarious backstory don't inspire confidence. Its a long drive from Olympia but I've always had a great time there. Almo is such a great place once you get to know it a little bit, I'd hate to skip it.

This is why locals won't sell land to new employees, they have to prove that they can deal with Wallace for five years first.

These are tense times with CIRO management. Brad is gone and now Shane is gone too. What else is different is that now we have several well organized climber advocacy groups to represent our interests in maintaining natural and cultural resources,but also recognizing climbing development as a legitimate activity. We are dedicated to pushing for a more balanced approach at CIRO and CRSP!

Though i support the Park Services' overall mission, I think climbers should definitely be weary of it. For I've noticed that ,within the parks, the more there is a push for absolutely preserving the landscape the more forgotten "for the people" becomes. First they can say no more routes, then they can tear down the old ones. it may sound radical but definitely not impossible. The parks are public land, that should not be forgotten. the public are an absolute necessity to park operations. Being involved is the best thing we can do. Being angry and accusing won't get us far.

Rob T wrote:Any more news on these developments?

Still a bit TBD, Rob. I think folks are trying to put together thoughts and strategy. There's a little time to do that. The season has wound down significantly with cooler inclement weather...so...gives us more time to cogitate on such things as "climbing management plans".

Shoot me an email if you have any thoughts.

Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote: I'd hazard a guess and say if even 0 routes went in in the next 5 years their visitation would barely be altered. It seems like most people come for the classics put up decades ago.

This is totally true. At the same time if you're so intent on climbing new stone, go do it! I myself have climbed a few new routes, at least they are not in any guide book. No hardware needed, and aside from showing a few trusted friends, I tend to keep these new routes to myself. Reminds me of climbing Kevin Pogue routes, if you're not happy with all the bolts, DON'T CLIP EVERY ONE!" That being said, I love Kevin's routes and the attention they draw. His routes help keep traffic low on other climbs, and they are great teaching and learning routes. I know that there are more routes like these out there, it would be a shame not to be able to put them up.

Climberman wrote:This is why locals won't sell land to new employees, they have to prove that they can deal with Wallace for five years first.

Ouch! Harsh... Perhaps there is a little truth to this. The list of rangers 'moving on' grows longer and longer. Years ago I put in for Natural Resource Manager positions at the City. The guy they hired lasted for a year or so. I put in for the Climbing Ranger position but wasn't qualified (my EMT was expired). Looks like that didn't last but 1/2 a year. Too bad, I thought Shane's credentials were top notch. I hoped he would bring balance to the force. Brad and I didn't always see eye to eye, but he was good for the park.

Chapter 2

Nathan W. wrote: First they can say no more routes, then they can tear down the old ones.

Not likely, Wallace doesn't want this, no one wants this. Shoot they are even protecting the black spray paint "Curtis Durfee" on your way into the park because its over 50 years old and now "historical".

Nathan W. wrote: Being angry and accusing won't get us far.

Truer words have never been spoken. From what I see, Wallace wants to do what's right for the parks. He has a long term view that perhaps is excessively conservative. Then again sometimes he can get a wild hair and want a bunk house, a fishing pond, and archery range. He is an interesting guy. Why not sit down with him, ask for his views on the situation. If you try to muscle against the system, you'll lose. If you work out a Win Win, then you Win.

I am a member of the Access Fund. What else can I do?

I would like to help out with this too. Perhaps there is some online info about meetings concerning COR access issues and other matters?

An update that Castle Rocks, City of Rocks, and the Idaho Mountain Festival Facebook pages linked to earlier today:
magicvalley.com/lifestyles/…

I think it is cool of Wallace to hold this meeting this Saturday. He doesn't have to do anything. He could tell everyone to pound sand. Instead he's taking the high road and looking for input. I wish I could go, but I'll be out of State.
Please post how the meeting goes.
Kevin

Anyone here go to the meeting? Were any decisions made, or just a lot of understanding going around?

I complained that there weren't any donuts. No one listened. Heavy sigh.

We had a good session. Details still being worked out but I'm hopeful.

What sucks (really sucks, IMHO), is that the BLM purportedly had a comment period for their closure of their parcel adjacent to the Castle, and, they got a whopping three letters, none from climbers (the group they'll impact the most). Even local climbers didn't hear about the public comment period, and, the changes are set to be permanent at the end of November. Ugh!!!

Brian in SLC wrote:What sucks (really sucks, IMHO), is that the BLM purportedly had a comment period for their closure of their parcel adjacent to the Castle, and, they got a whopping three letters, none from climbers (the group they'll impact the most). Even local climbers didn't hear about the public comment period, and, the changes are set to be permanent at the end of November. Ugh!!!

I called the BLM office and talked to a lady there about it. Guess that doesn't make it into the comments...

Anyway:
magicvalley.com/lifestyles/…

Looks like it's heading in a better direction.

No need to panic. What is happening in the inner circle of park policy will not affect day to day climbing at the City or Castle Rocks.

Brian in SLC wrote: the BLM purportedly had a comment period for their closure of their parcel adjacent to the Castle, and, they got a whopping three letters, none from climbers (the group they'll impact the most)!

I sent a letter, not to the BLM but to the Governor and I got a form letter in return.

Not to hijack the thread, but what's the penalty for climbing on the closed BLM land? And is CIRO or CRSP the ones that are supposed to patrol the boundaries?
Kevin

kevinhansen wrote:Not to hijack the thread, but what's the penalty for climbing on the closed BLM land? And is CIRO or CRSP the ones that are supposed to patrol the boundaries? Kevin

Yeah...you know I checked...ha ha.

Not to exceed $1000 and one year in prison. Little steep for my pay grade.

No new is good news I take it?
Any word?
Is anyone going to apply for the new Ranger Position? Are they going to have a position?
Kevin

kevinhansen wrote:No new is good news I take it? Any word?

Moratorium on placing fixed anchors at CRSP has been lifted. As an aside, there are no current permit holders (everyone's' permit has expired).

Not heard any news about a new ranger.

Spoke to Wallace yesterday, the CRSP climbing management plan is done and approved after heavy help from the access fund. The 21 page report should be up on the website soon.
The cpimbing ranger position has been cut down to a 9 month seasonal position. Less requirements to apply for it, (like no medical training, and you don't have to climb 5.10 just 5.9). Then again it pays $12 per hour. Wallace thinks it will be a good position to hold for someone for a few years and then they'll move on.
Kevin

What is the good word? (Bump)