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2015-16 Colorado Ice Conditions

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I see the death tree is still happily hanging on.

Rocky_Mtn_High · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 230
Scott McMahon wrote:I see the death tree is still happily hanging on.
That thing will outlive you!
Kurt Ross · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 280

How is Martha looking?

ScottC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

Made the over-zealous trip around Wolf Creek Pass yesterday - even drove to Zapata Falls and Blue Plate Special - and while some climbs are starting form, we found nothing quite climbable yet.

Out of everything we looked at, Sheeps Clothing, Alpha Male and another down-stream climb high on the cliff band [visible from 1st turn-out above the main highway switchback] looked the most promising, but these will need at least another week of cold temps.

Treasure is a long ways off [of course] and there was no ice at Chain Station.

Mike McNeil · · Spearfish, South Dakota · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 1,555

Turns out you need to leave at 3:55am to get there first.

Martin Barnett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 95

Anyone have any idea how the NE Face of Notch Top is looking?

Rocky_Mtn_High · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 230
Martin Barnett wrote:Anyone have any idea how the NE Face of Notch Top is looking?
Was hoping it climb it on Saturday, despite the recent snow, but we started wallowing in deep snow after Lake Helene; there was a good bit of windloading and some sloughing on the face; and the ice was anemic (looked like only second ice step was in decent shape), so we decided the approach and potential avy danger wasn't worth it. YMMV

But kudos to the guys that waded over there and jumped on a column on Grace Falls that had barely reached the cone base (at bottom of photo).
Notchtop, 14 Nov. 2015.
Rick McL · · Arvada CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 50

Slightly closer view of Grace Falls in upper left of frame from same trip on Saturday with RMH.

Grace Falls below Notchtop East Face.

Bob Smith III · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 45
First pitch of Martha on Mt. Lady Washington.

Martha was fun on 11/16/15, but very thin. The ice pitch were almost non-existent but the snow fields were quite fun! We soloed everything up to and after the 5th squeeze, which was the most vertical part of the route.

Here is a brief trip report:

mymountainramblings.blogspo…
Tony T · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45
B. Smith wrote: Martha was fun on 11/16/15, but very thin. The ice pitch were almost non-existent but the snow fields were quite fun! We soloed everything up to and after the 5th squeeze, which was the most vertical part of the route.
Oh, nice! I ran into you guys coming down the trail right at about tree-line. Thinking about making a go at it next weekend.
Bob Smith III · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 45

Awesome Tony! It is well worth it!

smellygregman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 170

Sometime during a handover at the base at Lincoln on Sat a 16cm turbo screw decided it no longer appreciated our company. Probably in the rocks below the column (right flow). If anyone comes across it and feels inclined to return it, there will be good will and a tasty beverage of your choosing as a reward. On another note, conditions were pretty good. The column had running water all day, but one determined individual made a go at it. Surprisingly, it was also not terribly crowded.

Greg Miller · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 30

Jewel is in, if not terribly wide. Probably thick enough to take screws for the full length.

Jewell Lake.

Kevin Zagorda · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 600
GregMiller wrote:Jewel is in, if not terribly wide. Probably thick enough to take screws for the full length.
Wished I had seen this sooner. We were up there Monday, could not see ice on the lower section of Jewell-Overflow from the trail, so we continued to Black Lake - good bootpack all the way to the lake. Reflections looked like it would go, West Gully still thin in the middle, we climbed Black Lake Slabs since the bottom pitch was fat and blue. The rest of the climb was pretty much a snow slog until the last section which was thin but doable. The walkoff, of course, was a posthole fest.

We also had a screw unclip from the rack somewhere on P2, it is an old style Grivel 360. I doubt it will reappear as long as that part of the route is covered in snow, but if anyone happens across it and is feeling generous we can discuss the reward of your choice.
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Kevin Zagorda wrote: Wished I had seen this sooner. We were up there Monday, could not see ice on the lower section of Jewell-Overflow from the trail
It's like catching a glimpse of Sasquatch sometimes. You have to catch it just right through the trees if at all.

First time we went up there years back we wandered around on both sides for what seemed an eternity. Now it's so clear. Posthole to the right and find the easiest line through the woods, and then hang left continuing to posthole until you hit the ice.
Kathleen Barney · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 5

Would anyone happen to have any info on South Mineral Creek ice?

CanDillo · · The Great State -Colorado · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280

Hey Kathleen. According to San Juan Mountain Guides page. Snowblind and North Face are in at South Mineral Creek. Go to their page and they have a conditions link.

Colin Simon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 370
Rocky_Mtn_High wrote: Was hoping it climb it on Saturday, despite the recent snow, but we started wallowing in deep snow after Lake Helene; there was a good bit of windloading and some sloughing on the face; and the ice was anemic (looked like only second ice step was in decent shape), so we decided the approach and potential avy danger wasn't worth it. YMMV But kudos to the guys that waded over there and jumped on a column on Grace Falls that had barely reached the cone base (at bottom of photo).
I was one of those guys on "Grace Falls." We were under the impression that we were on "Hot Doggie." Could anyone clarify?

Also, the couloir was safe, it was more a bit of spindrift than sloughing, and the wallowing wasn't that bad. And we put the track in ahead of you!
michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

^^^^^
Colin, if u were on the pillar in the bottom of rocky mtn high's pic. u were indeed on hot doggie, im guessing it felt more like 5 than 3 ;). how was it? looks like its in pretty stout!

Josh8384 Allison · · Glenwood springs, colorado · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0
Kathleen Barney wrote:Would anyone happen to have any info on South Mineral Creek ice?
We climbed DNF on Sunday it was in good shape, the rest of the routes look good as well but I would be careful they got a significant amount of snow the last couple of days.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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