Mountain Project Logo

Moonlight buttress approach

Original Post
Tommy Barker · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 75

I am headed down to give moonlight a go this weekend. The approach beta is a little lack luster and since this is my first time going it would be good to have some concrete details. Where do you park? What about the river crossing? And is the trail obvious once the river is crossed or will it take some searching in the dark?

divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90
Tommy Barker wrote:I am headed down to give moonlight a go this weekend. The approach beta is a little lack luster and since this is my first time going it would be good to have some concrete details. Where do you park? What about the river crossing? And is the trail obvious once the river is crossed or will it take some searching in the dark?
Park at Big Bend. It's kinda hard to miss Moonlight Buttress.
Scotty Nelson · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 830

It's pretty straightforward. Park at Big Bend and find the best spot to cross. I don't think you need to get a parking permit this time of year, but double check at the Visitor Center / Wilderness Desk. If you are leaving stuff at the base, bring some poles to help the crossing. The water should be low this time of year, but will be cold. If you have a 2nd pair of shoes you can get wet, cross in those as you can get across faster, then change into a second, dry set on the other side. Also be prepared for many other parties on the route, most of them free climbing. Not sure what time it goes into the shade this time of year, I know in ~April it's 2 PM.

Michael Goodhue · · Colorado · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 35

Well, if you're there on the weekend you park at the Visitor's Center or in Springdale and take the shuttle.

nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

You're gonna die.

vietgoeswest · · Portland · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 100

Tommy: it may be a good idea to check out the alternate approach from Angel landing trail if rain is in the forecast. Last year the river was impassable after the rain. I bailed from Moonlight and had to walk out the long way.

Justin Lofthouse · · Utah · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 130

You can see how distinct the trail is on this map google.com/maps/place/Zion+…@37.2759084,-112.9480457,169m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x7c2e3a15aa3656f5!6m1!1e1

The key is to look for the big boulder:

google.com/maps/place/Zion+…@37.2760989,-112.9475381,42m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x7c2e3a15aa3656f5!6m1!1e1

You park at Big Bend like everyone said. You walk along the road for a few minutes and then drop down. As you walk along the river, look for the big boulder and cross there. You should be able to find a well defined trail after that.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

"Approach: Drive into Zion to a bend in the road and park in the lot on the left (Big Bend parking lot), or, continue on for 500’ to a paved pullout on the right. The Moonlight Buttress is obvious. Continue on foot up the road, drop down to the river, and cross near a huge boulder on the far side. Pick up a great climber’s trail to the base of the route. Begin the route well to the left by scrambling up a 4th class passage to the first belay. The approach takes about 30 minutes."

So that info is lackluster? That's the first time I've heard that criticism.

Forgive me for not specifying that you may need to take off your shoes and roll up your pant legs or if the water is high to take your pants off altogether. Seriously, if you are going to try to climb Moonlight, the approach is the least of your concerns. Good luck!

Tommy Barker · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 75

Josh, sorry I didn't look at the free beta. I just assumed it would be the same as what was on the clean aid. I didn't mean to upset you. Justin, thanks that was exactly what I was looking for!

Brandon B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

T$ Barker:

The 4th time we freed moonlight the aliens picked us off on the top of pitch 5 when we were trying to sleep.

Recommendations:
1. bring alien repellent, shit's legit
2. don't forget Teddy Bear
3. climb under the moon as much as possible
4. bring 101 cam hooks cuz you'll probably drop 100 of them. And then make sure to not use that last one despite what Tdog and Cam-man say, that's wack.

Enjoy,
Bdrizzz1000

Post Script: LNT4lyfe

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
vgw wrote:Tommy: it may be a good idea to check out the alternate approach from Angel landing trail if rain is in the forecast. Last year the river was impassable after the rain. I bailed from Moonlight and had to walk out the long way.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding this, but if it rains, you shouldn't climb the route. It's sandstone.

I understand the request for info, but if you've been there it's obvious. It's the big buttress across the river. Wade and you're there. Not a bad idea though to check about a good place to park. Those policies seem to vary over time.

Great route. You'll have a blast.
vietgoeswest · · Portland · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 100
Fat Dad wrote: Maybe I'm misunderstanding this, but if it rains, you shouldn't climb the route. It's sandstone. I understand the request for info, but if you've been there it's obvious. It's the big buttress across the river. Wade and you're there. Not a bad idea though to check about a good place to park. Those policies seem to vary over time. Great route. You'll have a blast.
fat dad: I was suggesting the OP to get familiar the alternate approach in case rain forces him to retreat. In my case knee deep crossing the day before turned into a class 5 rapid.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
Post a Reply to "Moonlight buttress approach"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.