Totem cams: which size/color the best?

Regarding the totem cams that can hold well on 2 lobes (ie, not the totem basics), which of the cam sizes do you most prefer and importantly, why? I was told green, but after testing it, not so sure. Thanks!

I think the size of any cam I prefer is dependent on the climb I am on at that time. Either way I have the Blue and Yellow Totems and I love both sizes equally. It looks like we climb in similar areas and I use them all the time in Joshua Tree and Tahquitz. Why? They feel like they sit in their placement very solidly. The head width is narrow and fits well almost everywhere. I have fallen on both and they didn't budge.

I haven't used any of the other sizes but plan on getting them all at some point.
What did you not like about the Green size?

Also I think the two lobe placement is meant more for aid climbing.

Depends on what you climb & what you already have. They do hold better than almost all cams (with the possible exception of splitter cams) on 2 lobes, but I'm not sure that should be the overriding concern. There are offset cams available in the smaller sizes for dealing with flares, but now & then you encounter a larger pod that regular cams won't fit as well. I use the purple the most, but I also carry the green & red, rarely the yellow. The blue just sits around for me to give away for a favor.

reboot wrote:The blue just sits around for me to give away for a favor.

I'm a guy who likes doing favors almost as much as I love the blue Totem. What do you need?

reboot wrote: I use the purple the most, but I also carry the green & red, rarely the yellow. The blue just sits around for me to give away for a favor.

Interesting. I would have thought that they would be most useful in the smaller sizes, while in the larger sizes the various advantages would not be as important Why don't you like/use the yellow and blue- do you just prefer Basics and/or offsets to Totems in those sizes?

It's not that the smaller ones aren't useful, but I have plenty of basics/aliens, even a couple offsets. The complexity of the Totem isn't as justified in the smaller sizes. The purple I like b/c that's a hard size for most people & it absolutely rocked for valley piton scars.

As for the green & red, it's not that a C4 wouldn't work 99% of the time, but for the 1% that literally nothing else will work (unless you had some of the larger CCH aliens), these are money. But on the hand, the bulkiness of the Totem for the larger sizes doesn't bother me as much & unlike the larger CCH aliens (or even the equivalent sized BD X4s), they are quite stable torsionally.

JCM wrote: Interesting. I would have thought that they would be most useful in the smaller sizes, while in the larger sizes the various advantages would not be as important Why don't you like/use the yellow and blue- do you just prefer Basics and/or offsets to Totems in those sizes?

I really like them as doubles in the finger sizes for my aliens. They're a slightly different size, but equally noodly and super solid. I prefer them over equivalent metolius, bd, or WC small cams.

I also think they're more solid than the green/yellow aliens in marginal placements.

Another vote for the blue and yellow. I always grab em first. I feel like the larger sizes would feel really bulky on my harness. Somehow the blue doesn't feel as small as my BD .3s...

I use the blue and yellow more than the rest and find that they hold much better than any offset cam in similar ranges and placements. I am hoping Totem comes out with smaller sizes than the blue. Nothing comes close to the same capabilities when aid climbing and no other cam offset or otherwise gives you more confidence in crappy placements. I have a double set of Totems and plan on getting more in the blue and yellow range.

Whichever one fits the placement.

I see a bigger difference between the Totems and the Master cams, in the smaller sizes. But I have all 5 and I really like them. I have heard it suggested that only the 3 on the small end are worth buying.

if you dont have aliens youll find the smaller ones more useful

if you do have aliens, then the larger ones

the aliens do a pretty good job (current QC issues aside) ... the are just as flexible and have similar head width

the totems however supposedly hold better in "marginal" placement ... which you should try no to make in the first place if you can help it

the green alien is still the "go to" piece for squamish ... itll fit places where the blue totem wont as its slightly smaller

Kevin Mokracek wrote:I use the blue and yellow more than the rest and find that they hold much better than any offset cam in similar ranges and placements. I am hoping Totem comes out with smaller sizes than the blue. Nothing comes close to the same capabilities when aid climbing and no other cam offset or otherwise gives you more confidence in crappy placements. I have a double set of Totems and plan on getting more in the blue and yellow range.

the black totem (Regular) is in the pipeline i hear, same size as the blue alien roughly .... supposed to be coming out soon

;)

The green works well, as do all the others. I have a full set of both Totems and Basics.

Buy what you can when you can, and don't worry about which specific one is better. They all do the job intended if used correctly.

Build up what you need and split the rest with your partner right now, if this is a possibility. You can always add to what you have when you find out what works well and is needed.

My preference is for security in the small range and I find myself a little at ease when using the Totems, but proper placement of other pro works too.

Also, I would work hard at getting a better placement with all four lobes in contact with the rock, or at least try to back up a weak placement, if not make another as soon as possible. The design of the Totem cam forces the lobes open when weighted, but under high forces during a fall I would be reluctant to climb too high above, or belay someone with just two lobes placed. Steve hit it earlier above - two lobe placement would be more for aid, but if you use it this way for leading...

Consider the cams possible movement/orientation when climbing above the placement, as well, due to rope drag/pull. The cam has an easier possibility of moving into a perpendicular position and possibly causing the cam not be able to operate in the position it was designed. Furthermore, the sling loop is short, and I would advise extending with a quickdraw or other when necessary. I don't advise to use the cam this way, though.

I love them all