Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joel Irby, Dave Hoven, Evan Deis
Page Views: 2,828 total · 25/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Feb 10, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is THE line on this formation, it faces southeast and climbs excellent windgate rock for the majority of the climb with a spectacular summit pitch.

P1. This pitch is OW the whole way. Straight in stacking gets you into the corner system. Where a full body workout begins in a flared corner, climb 80' to the stopper roof above. Climb out this roof on #5 C4 Camalots (5.11, solid) and into an alcove where an OK belay can be made on a couple #6 Friends, a small cam, and a pin, +/- 110' (5.11).

P2. Climb up the squeeze a bit runout at first but fairly easy entering the squeeze (#9 VG) keeps the fall from being really bad. Squeeze to the anchor, there is not much gear on this pitch but not much is really needed, +/- 90' (5.8+). The FAs most likly combined this pitch with the 1st.

P3. Face climb past two fixed pieces (5.10) to a finger crack, and then continue up this fantastic summit pitch on excellent Wingate with mostly hands and thin hands, +/- 150' (5.10).

Both belays are solid with shinny new hardware throughout the climb. This is a very quality adventure. Props to whoever got it up, it looks like we missed it by maybe a year. Awesome that lines like this are still available in the desert if you know where to look.

Location Suggest change

Hump your ass off, & hope to find the right wash to the base. Come in from the East or West, it's about the same distance.

Protection Suggest change

You could dump 5 or 6 #5 C4s on pitch one without really trying, definitely save two for the roof, singles from yellow Metolius to #6 C4 with doubles in the #1-#6 C4, maybe 6 #5s C4 for the 1st pitch, and lots of runners. Bring two ropes as both raps are 150+ feet.

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