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Routes in 07: Brinton's Buttress
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Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Berkeley Direct TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | First Lead: Jim Erickson |
| Page Views: | 5,898 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | chris tregge on Dec 31, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Chicago is an old school bold lead that has been tamed significantly by the advent of spring loaded cams and better small gear. Start up the crack system with good gear options on the beautiful vertical face. Essentially the same start as Berkely, although perhaps a touch left. At around 20 feet you come to a perfect triangular niche. The crux of the climb is exiting this niche. Once you commit to the moves to take you above the niche, a few more insecure moves deposit you high up on the wall where you can breathe a sigh of relief and take in the scenery.
Protection
The Book calls this route a "Hero Climb", and you know I do belive they are right. The Pro on this route is bad.
A #1 tri Cam fits up in the triangular nitch, which protects the harder section at the top
I left this section untouched from the original contributor, as I thought it was kind of funny. That, and there is a lot of gear beta found below in the comments. I also left the safety rating as "R" as originally submitted but I feel that PG-13 would be more appropriate. Leader beware.
A #1 tri Cam fits up in the triangular nitch, which protects the harder section at the top
I left this section untouched from the original contributor, as I thought it was kind of funny. That, and there is a lot of gear beta found below in the comments. I also left the safety rating as "R" as originally submitted but I feel that PG-13 would be more appropriate. Leader beware.
17 Comments