Puffy for South America (6000m)
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My layering upper body: |
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my first time in south america (Peru, in the blanca) I brought a DAS and a mountain hardware subzero. I only ever used the DAS. Climbed alpamayo (just under 6000m). Second time I didn't bother with the down and just brought the DAS - we all got sick on this trip but we were around 5500m before we pulled the plug. Depending on where you're going it's not all that cold - there's a reason the glaciers are all disappearing down there. If you're going for one of the big, high, multiday peaks like huscaran then I'd go with some pretty warm stuff. But for peaks you can climb in a day or so then I might not bring the big guns. I am planning to go back next May and will be bringing a Montbell permafrost jacket and a lighter synthetic jacket. Really depends on where you're going and when... |
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Thanks for the input. The permafrost has 9oz of 800 fill down, ill base my puffy off of that. What did you bring for a sleeping bag? I am also planning on May |
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Rab Positron Jacket
275 grams of 800 fill, hydrophobic down. Box-wall construction in the torso/hood and sewn-through in the arms. Big brother to the Neutrino series. |
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Not that I need one, but I really like the looks of the new Positron. |
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I brought a MEC merlin -10 C sleeping bag - a lightweight no-frills bag. worked fine - but i wasn't at high altitude for any significant length of time. |
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my first time doing big mountains (in peru in the blanca) i had |
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AlpineIce wrote: Rab Positron Jacket 275 grams of 800 fill, hydrophobic down. Box-wall construction in the torso/hood and sewn-through in the arms. Big brother to the Neutrino series.I just bought one for my wife, fill weight isnt what I expected. I was expecting a very large filled jacket, the jacket is pretty trim. |
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Ok, Ill be bringing a 15F bag, so this parka will also be part of the sleeping system. |
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Mountain Equipment's Citadel belay jacket has 200g Primaloft One in the torso. Might be an option for you? |
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citadel is a little heavy at 30oz. I think i want around 20oz for total weight. good suggestion though thats probably the warmest syn jacket out there. |
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If I may... I think you're worrying a but much. We still don't know where you're going, but often it's not that cold, the weather is fairly stable that time of year so hopefully you won't be sitting around too much. |
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Ray Pinpillage wrote: I just bought one for my wife, fill weight isnt what I expected. I was expecting a very large filled jacket, the jacket is pretty trim.I just looked at Rab's website and the women's Positron Jacket is stuffed with 230 grams of down. The men's Positron Jacket is made with 275 grams of down (size large). Pretty big difference. I wonder why Rab does this? Usually women tend to get colder faster, which would warrant more insulation ... For the OP: Not sure what your cash flow's like, but the Arc'teryx Dually Belay Parka may fit your needs. 182 grams of their proprietary insulation, ThermaTek. I own this jacket and can attest to its warmth. It's on sale at Backcountry.com right now. 20% off one full-priced item, which makes it a "little" more "reasonable." It weighs around 25 ounces, so that may tip the scales a little too much for you. |
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Alpine: I will never buy another arc product again. But for a syn puff, I hear its a great option. |
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AlpineIce wrote: I just looked at Rab's website and the women's Positron Jacket is stuffed with 230 grams of down. The men's Positron Jacket is made with 275 grams of down (size large). Pretty big difference. I wonder why Rab does this? Usually women tend to get colder faster, which would warrant more insulation ...The difference in weight is largely due to the smaller women's size. What I'm talking about is the overall loft of the jacket. I would think a jacket advertised as 6000m would have more loft. That being said, RAB makes a killer jacket and the cut really is better than most other brands. The reduced loft may actually end up being a benefit to my wife because she probably won't ever climb in temperatures low enough for the monster jacket I thought I was buying. |
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Ray Pinpillage wrote: The difference in weight is largely due to the smaller women's size. What I'm talking about is the overall loft of the jacket. I would think a jacket advertised as 6000m would have more loft. That being said, RAB makes a killer jacket and the cut really is better than most other brands. The reduced loft may actually end up being a benefit to my wife because she probably won't ever climb in temperatures low enough for the monster jacket I thought I was buying.I was able to try on the men's Positron Jacket, size medium today. I too was expecting a little more loft for the advertised 6000m range. However, I feel this jacket is plenty warm for anything 6000m or below with the proper synthetic layering options. The size for the medium was not as big as I expected for a belay-built jacket. I'm 5'10" & around 174 pounds and the medium is a bit tight with my action suit on. As surprised as I am to say this, anyone who may be considering the Positron Jacket, you may want to size up. I wasn't able to try on the men's large, so I'm not sure if it would have been a perfect fit over all my layers or if I would have swam in it. But your right Ray, I think Rab makes some of the best down-insulated jackets available. |
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I compared the Positron and the Neutrino Endurance earlier today at my local shop. Rab claims the Positron has 275g of down, Neutrino has 225g. I also was expecting the Positron to be significantly loftier and thicker. Instead, the Neutrino feels much thicker and "puffier" when worn. I believe it's because the Positron is fully baffled, whereas the Neutrino is sewn-through. |
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Hey Jon, how's it going? |
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Anybody have thoughts on the Mountain Equipment Vega? |