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Where is that video of the climbing rope getting severed? ! ?

Original Post
danielwhore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 56

So on some big wall forum post (or mtnproj or supertopo - who knows - ONE of the many climbing forums I read while in class..) I came across this video of a guy demonstrating how jugging a fixed line running over a 90 degree edge can SEVER the rope after like 6 or 7 small bounces.. it also showed the same guy demonstrating how rubbing the rope against an edge during a pendulum can saw the rope in half after just a few goes.. does anybody know what video I'm talking about?? I wanna show a friend. Could not find it on youtube or anywhere..

PS in 'real life' my rope seems to rub against edges like crazy on rappel and even while jugging - and it's never even cut the sheath, let alone sawed it in half! How likely is this to actually happen? I wish I had the video so I could POST IT so people could watch it.. SOMEONE FIND IT PLEASE!! I don't wanna die. Thanks ;)

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
danielwhore wrote:So on some big wall forum post (or mtnproj or supertopo - who knows - ONE of the many climbing forums I read while in class..) I came across this video of a guy demonstrating how jugging a fixed line running over a 90 degree edge can SEVER the rope after like 6 or 7 small bounces.. it also showed the same guy demonstrating how rubbing the rope against an edge during a pendulum can saw the rope in half after just a few goes.. does anybody know what video I'm talking about?? I wanna show a friend. Could not find it on youtube or anywhere.. PS in 'real life' my rope seems to rub against edges like crazy on rappel and even while jugging - and it's never even cut the sheath, let alone sawed it in half! How likely is this to actually happen? I wish I had the video so I could POST IT so people could watch it.. SOMEONE FIND IT PLEASE!! I don't wanna die. Thanks ;)
It is on Petzl's website, they were the ones who filmed it.
danielwhore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 56

Hey! I just looked all over their site, can't find it. I contacted them to ask where I can find it.. I will post it once I do but in the meantime, anybody know which vid I'm talking about? post the link if you do :)

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

I pretty much core shot a rope jugging one pitch on it (2 people) when I ran it over an edge near the anchor.

JVW · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 80

The only time I ever jugged a rope it was set up by 2 guys with years of big wall jugging experience. I ascended the rope 120 feet to find just three strands of kermantle still intact, the rope had been sawing itself against the coarse granite the entire time I was jugging up, had the jug been 30-50 feet higher I probably wouldn't be around to write this. I'll never forget the sheer horror I felt when arriving at the top and seeing the rope nearly cut through, needless to say, I don't jug lines anymore, not to say I wouldn't again but I sure as heck would make sure it was set up better before ascending.

Steve86 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 10

My buddy and I core shot a brand new 10mm static line by one person jugging 100 ft of line running over an edge. Be careful.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
JVW wrote:The only time I ever jugged a rope it was set up by 2 guys with years of big wall jugging experience. I ascended the rope 120 feet to find just three strands of kermantle still intact,
FYI - "kern" is the core. "Mantle" is the sheath. Modern ropes are kernmantle construction; older types e.g. Goldline are called "laid" ropes.
JVW · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 80

Thanks for the lesson gunkiemike! Threes strands of kern left, mantle sheared through.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
JVW wrote:The only time I ever jugged a rope it was set up by 2 guys with years of big wall jugging experience. I ascended the rope 120 feet to find just three strands of kermantle still intact, the rope had been sawing itself against the coarse granite the entire time I was jugging up, had the jug been 30-50 feet higher I probably wouldn't be around to write this. I'll never forget the sheer horror I felt when arriving at the top and seeing the rope nearly cut through, needless to say, I don't jug lines anymore, not to say I wouldn't again but I sure as heck would make sure it was set up better before ascending.
So what did you do? Did you rap back down?
danielwhore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 56

Jake Jones!! you found it :) thanks so much

Kirtis Courkamp · · Golden · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 378

Hey I am looking for this video too i saw it a while ago and have searched petzl's website and can't find it any more. If any has a link to it or knows where it's at i would love to see it again.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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