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Beijing Extension (11c 35m/12b 40m)
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 18 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Patrick O'Donnell |
Page Views: | 1,364 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
To 35m: Climb straight above the new Beijing anchor into easy climbing for a few bolts. The route trends up and right through an obvious dihedral system. When the dihedral starts to trend straight up it becomes pumpy with an awkward crux over a bulge in the dihedral. Stand up over the bulge and clip the chains.
To 40m: From the 35m anchor at 11c do a huge move right to a mail slot, then another reachy move up and left to a good hold. Clip one bolt then do a bouldery move to holds and a delicate finish at another anchor above at 40m. The rock is not as good on this extra section but it has been extensively cleaned. It adds a super fun hard boulder problem at 40m with clean air time. If you have an 80m rope and want an extra challenge go for it!
To 40m: From the 35m anchor at 11c do a huge move right to a mail slot, then another reachy move up and left to a good hold. Clip one bolt then do a bouldery move to holds and a delicate finish at another anchor above at 40m. The rock is not as good on this extra section but it has been extensively cleaned. It adds a super fun hard boulder problem at 40m with clean air time. If you have an 80m rope and want an extra challenge go for it!
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