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Elevation: 4,229 ft
GPS: 33.27178, -111.04223
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 294,057 total · 1,373/month
Shared By: Mike on Sep 17, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Mc, Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Despite having arguably the best climbing in Queen Creek, Lower Devil's Canyon gets relatively little traffic due to it's difficult approach.

Getting There Suggest change

Take the Magma Mine Road past the Oak Flat campground. After 1.5 miles, turn left onto the dirt road FR315 (close the gate behind you!).   Head south and then southeast along FR315 after 2 miles, you'll descend into a valley, Hackberry Creek.  Head east along the valley (for the Road Area, head west instead); after 1/2 mile, the road will start ascending to the parking area.  The last 1/4 mile going to the parking area is rather rough.

250 Total Climbs

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Location: Lower Devil's Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Devil's Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
Easy Street
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 45
Smokin' The Toad
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
Three Amigos
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Dacite Conspiracy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Accelerated Climbology
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
The Fruits of Optomisim
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Drop 'em South
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 44
The Shmotem Pole
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Centipede Corner
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 74
Pathological Optimist
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Octabulgey
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 164
The Totem Pole
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 12
Eyes of the World
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 13
High Man on the Shmotem Pole
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 5
Double Fault
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easy Street Hackberry Creek
 45
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Smokin' The Toad Hackberry Creek
 45
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Three Amigos Glitter Box Area
 37
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Dacite Conspiracy Hackberry Creek
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Accelerated Climbology Lower Devil's E… > Climbology Area
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Fruits of Optomisim Totem-Proto Area
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Drop 'em South Totem-Proto Area
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Shmotem Pole Lower Devil's E… > Shmotem Pole
 44
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Centipede Corner Lower Devil's E… > Lunchbox
 20
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pathological Optimist Totem-Proto Area
 74
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Octabulgey Refuge > Torch > Bulges
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Totem Pole Totem-Proto Area
 164
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Eyes of the World Glitter Box Area
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
High Man on the Shmotem Pole Lower Devil's E… > Shmotem Pole
 13
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Double Fault Refuge > Faulty Towers > Towers
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Devil's Canyon »

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