New Yosemite Free Climbs Select Guidebook Almost Done - Call for Photos!

Ed - Albert and John couldn't figure out the names to the routes around the ones they climbed(at Weekend At Albert's), so I figured that they were not published. My bad. Folks want the topo to go climb the routes. And judging from the response after Albert and John made their topo, not many folks had been climbing those routes before this year.

I appreciate that you're suggesting that an effort has been made to get information about new climbs out there to folks. But I'm not buying it. The FA ist should just make a simple topo, like John and Albert did, and post it online. Then any corrections can be made. The climbs matter much more than the names.

Thank you so much for the photos gang! I prefer top down shots where the person in the picture is leading the climb, so there would have had to be a party below you on the climb. So fun to see everyone's shots though. When I have more time I'll post a bunch up on the Facebook page.

Didn't have time to read the thread today, just saw Ed's post a couple back so commented on it. Keep it classy folks! And remember what Chongo was teaching you in Climbing preschool - it's BE Bitchin, not be bitchin a lot, hahaha.

Woot Woot!
Erik
erik@yosemitebigwall.com

No information is better than false information. With no information, you get the adventure experience of going into the unknown. False information, on the other hand, is just annoying and potentially dangerous. Perhaps you should double check information before you publish it.

And when are you going to address the issues of your retrobolting? We'd all like to have a nice civilized discussion about it and you have yet to contribute anything to the topic. We're waiting...

Anyone have a picture of Lena's Lieback at Swan Slab? Thanks Guys!

Eli - not putting out a topo is no information. No one had been climbing those routes with no information.

If the wrong name affects your experience of the climb, then you're a rare breed.

Mecca topo coming shortly.....you guys are gonna love this one!

eli poss wrote: And when are you going to address the issues of your retrobolting? We'd all like to have a nice civilized discussion about it and you have yet to contribute anything to the topic. We're waiting...

Lol this

Erik Sloan wrote:Eli - not putting out a topo is no information. No one had been climbing those routes with no information. If the wrong name affects your experience of the climb, then you're a rare breed. Mecca topo coming shortly.....you guys are gonna love this one!

With the follow up of this

Erik is literally in your nose trolling this thread

So passive it hurts! Border-line Rule #1 infringement with the way he dances around the inquisitions and I can't stop checking back to see if he has addressed anyone on it

Derek Jf wrote: Lol this With the follow up of this Erik is literally in your nose trolling this thread So passive it hurts! Border-line Rule #1 infringement with the way he dances around the inquisitions and I can't stop checking back to see if he has addressed anyone on it

people keep beating a dead horse. He (Erik) made it very clear that he won't address the issue of retro-bolting because he doesn't believe he's wrong. I don't know why people still trying to get him to address this. If you don't like what he's doing, you can #1 don't buy his topo, #2 chop his bolts and #3 address the issue face to face with him.

K Weber: Hartouni has published more than 80 peer-reviewed articles as a physicist. If you've shepherded even one article through a rigorous peer review process, you know how challenging that is. (I've done it a few dozen times).

Ed's professional record tells us that: (a) he is meticulous, and (b) he is a closer.

divnamite wrote: people keep beating a dead horse. He (Erik) made it very clear that he won't address the issue of retro-bolting because he doesn't believe he's wrong. I don't know why people still trying to get him to address this. If you don't like what he's doing, you can #1 don't buy his topo, #2 chop his bolts and #3 address the issue face to face with him.

poor horse....

divnamite wrote: I don't know why people still trying to get him to address this. If you don't like what he's doing, you can #1 don't buy his topo, #2 chop his bolts and #3 address the issue face to face with him.

Not necessarily in that order...
As for "why people still trying to get him to address this"
perhaps they are betting on a different horse - and just keeping this front and center so that other people are incited to do #1-3 as well.

Erik Sloan wrote:If the wrong name affects your experience of the climb, then you're a rare breed.

I'm not referring to you screwing up some names on a specific topo. I'm referring to your attitude of speed over accuracy, how you would rather fix mistakes after the topo is published and have users do your dirty work by finding the mistakes.

divnamite wrote: people keep beating a dead horse. He (Erik) made it very clear that he won't address the issue of retro-bolting because he doesn't believe he's wrong. I don't know why people still trying to get him to address this. If you don't like what he's doing, you can #1 don't buy his topo, #2 chop his bolts and #3 address the issue face to face with him.

I would like to think that, if the voice of opposition is large enough, he will respond. Then again, considering the kind of narcissist that would do such things in the first place it's doubtful at best.

Spiny Norman wrote:K Weber: Hartouni has published more than 80 peer-reviewed articles as a physicist. If you've shepherded even one article through a rigorous peer review process, you know how challenging that is. (I've done it a few dozen times). Ed's professional record tells us that: (a) he is meticulous, and (b) he is a closer.

Another NO ANSWER.

I am asking for something very simple.

A project with out a deadline is meaningless.

So when will this Comprehensive Guide be available??????
Or will it always be bogged down with trying to obtain most/accurate/complete info???
PARALYSIS THROUGH ANALYSIS

I don't think that we are "bogged down with trying to obtain most/accurate/complete info" the amount of "new" information coming in has reduced to a trickle (compared to before). Soon we'll inform all of the information suppliers of the deadline for submitting information; at which point we are in the endgame.

We aren't trying to climb everyone one of the routes put up since 1995. In particular, we're hitting what we think will be routes in popular areas people already are climbing in, or completely new areas. The author team has a lot of knowledge and experience climbing in the Valley, both the old routes and the new routes.

There isn't paralysis, at least not evidenced by my email... the content phase is nearly complete. In terms of topos, we are quite a ways through on the analog versions, with digitized versions following closely behind. The digitized versions offer ease in correcting/modifying where issue pop up in the editing/checking phase.

The book layout phase has been through some prototypes (not the complete book), we have many draft articles for the front matter and we are working through the list of images. The book layout is also using standard applications (InDesign, Illustrator, Photoshop) which will aid in adapting the book to various media.

We have offers to help with editing, etc... and we have YCA taking the lead on the publication process.
---
Who is K Weber and what is his/her project experience? especially with writing, and writing guidebooks in particular?

He's sitting in the mountain room right now punching away at his laptop keys and leafing through the Reid guide.

K Weber wrote: Another NO ANSWER. I am asking for something very simple. A project with out a deadline is meaningless.

Obviously not a believer in government then...

Erik Sloan wrote:Hi Gang, Thanks for all the photos! I've received several awesome shots, and will be in touch with everyone who contributed soon. As for the rest of this thread, this has not turned out to be a place where we can have a constructive conversation about fixed anchor ethics in Yosemite. So I'm going to write a blog post on Yosemitebigwall.com to address each of the concerns that have been raised here. When that is up, proally by tomorrow night, I will take down this post. That way we can discuss things in a more constructive manner. Best, Erik erik@yosemitebigwall.com

4 days and waiting.

Can you address

1. Your rationale on adding bolts to BOR?
2. Adding of bolts to accommodate those climbers who are 5'7?
3. Every thread you bring the topic back to you, your book and website and avoid the core questions.?
4. Are you going to financially compensate individuals with royalties for " giving " you photos for your book/app or do you expect them to give them to you for free?

No one cares about your wallet or time schedule. It's how you decide how you want to alter the rock in a manner which better suits YOUR need vs. climbing it in the style and fashion of the FA.
No one is either complaining really about anchor replacement. AS LONG as it's BOLT for BOLT.

Tony B wrote: Obviously not a believer in government then...

Yes, let's try to derail this whole thread with how much everyone doesn't like the government. That will bring back a sense of community around here!

Are you going to financially compensate individuals with royalties for " giving " you photos for your book/app or do you expect them to give them to you for free?

I did get a .pdf version of the guide from Erik to compensate for the use of my image... (which may not have been my image after all).

Ed Hartouni wrote:Are you going to financially compensate individuals with royalties for " giving " you photos for your book/app or do you expect them to give them to you for free? I did get a .pdf version of the guide from Erik to compensate for the use of my image... (which may not have been my image after all).

Ed, any ballpark figure for your book's release date? I'm asking because if someone who wants to go to Yosemite might be willing to wait for your book rather buying Erik's. But, let's face it, most non-locals who are making long treks to Yosemite don't have many options when it comes to free climbing guidebooks.

Ed Hartouni , when do you expect your guide going to come out?

Ed Hartouni wrote:--- Who is K Weber and what is his/her project experience? especially with writing, and writing guidebooks in particular?

Classic misdirection of a conversation. A very classic high-school and defensive question to a question.

Answer to your question ED....doesn't matter.

With your explanation on how much work is left and your current rate of speed there is approximately 168.94592 weeks till publication of "YOSEMITE: The MOST COMPREHENSIVE CLIMBERS GUIDE PRINTED" .