looking for a new all day trad/crack shoe. seems like TC pros are the standard, but anybody like evolvs model?
i have a credit for any free pair of evolvs, trying to decide if their climbing shoes are up to par or if I should just go with some approach shoes which always come in handy.
If you have a credit just get them and if you don't like them get some TC's. You can't go wrong with TC's
20 kN
·
Nov 12, 2015
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,346
This exact thread already exists on this forum so use the search. I own the Astromans and enjoy them for crack climbing. They suck for face climbing as they are as stiff as steel and consequently have zero sensitivity (not unlike the TC pros). I have used both and found they are both similar, just the Evolvs cost slightly less.
I was looking at the two and ended up getting the TC pro's for a few reasons. 1.La sportiva fit me better 2.The narrow sole while not the most comfortable shape allows awesome face climbing performance. 3. They are very comfortable after a short break in period. 4. They found the Goldilocks zone for stiffness not too hard or soft just right. 5. The ever so slight down turn allows for good performance till about 20 degrees overhang. 6. The toe can just about get into fine cracks all the reviews have told me the Astroman simply cant make it in. 7. The laces are protected in the TC pros, the astroman laces look pretty exposed if doing hand jams. 8. The fact that Tommy Caldwell and kevin Jorgenson used this shoe on the dawn wall (Kevin used these when trying the crux traverse, so much for being sponsored by 5.10!). 9. Alex Honnold. Well those are my reasons for deciding to go for the TC pro's and i have yet to find any short comings providing i don't go past 20 degrees overhanging. The only shortcoming (don't know if i would call it an issue with the shoe) is it's only so so in fine finger cracks.
My Astromans are my go to desert and not so technical multi pitch shoes. I have them fit for socks so I can wear them in the winter and they are super comfy all day. I replaced the laces with p cord sheath and the shoes are fucking burly, they can take a beating without seems ripping. The toe cap is definitely bigger than the TC pros and I don't think they smear as well. they aren't going to do as well on thinner cracks either. If you have credit for a free pair I wouldn't hesitate getting some. I was skeptical at first but like I said, they are my go to desert shoe.
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