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Routes in Day Canyon Cragging Routes
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A Pirate's Life for Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Aerobicide T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alba's Half Price Hand Jams T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Android Waffle Hot Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Another Fine Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bee Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Black Widow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brush Painted Datsun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Christine's Way Buff Saab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cleaver, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Concepcion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Finger Bandit T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Full Price Fangers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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In the Bushes V0+ 4+ |
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Kentucky Brown Water T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2 |
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Kiss of the Spider Women T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pocket Rocket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Screaming Deal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Thicker than Water T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thicker Than Water (pitch 1) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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What Momma Don't Know T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Working Class Hero T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,325 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | John Hovell on Oct 11, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Start at the right side of a loose pillar to gain access to a splitter thin hand crack which widens to a hand crack, past a few wedged blocks, eventually transitioning left to a splitter different hand crack for about 50 feet. Finish with a few moves of fist/offwidth over a small roof/bulge to gain anchors to the left of the crack.
Location
Hike in Day Canyon past Working Class Hero, continue on the old jeep trail for another 5 minutes or so. On the right side, identify a striking dihedral with at least 2 anchors visible from the trail, followed by to the left a shorter dihedral guarded by a wide OW/chimney slot/roof. Route further to the left. It is an obvious thin hands to OW splitter at the top of loose hueco-studded buttress. I think a 70m would make it down fine, though we climbed with an 80m. The anchor consists of a drilled piton, an old but serviceable kong 1/4 bolt and a 3rd buttonhead bolt, and could probably stand replacing.
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