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Getting used to falling on gear

Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Personally for me I had climbed and cleaned the first trad route that I ever fell on multiple times on TR. I knew exactly where the crux was and what the gear right before and right after the crux was.

I can't even tell you how many times I have fallen on my yellow Metolius trying to get a clean send on that route. It probably has over a dozen from other friends trying as well. The cam has no mechanical issues and will continue to hold falls for years to come. Pretty inspiring that such a small piece can hold multiple ~10 foot falls. Most of the time I didn't have to re-place it either it was still sitting exactly where I had it.

This worked pretty well for me, and I have since fallen on a bunch of other cams. Im not a strong climber by any means but I climb at the same grade on bolts and gear.

frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95
Old lady H wrote: Especially after having a kid!
That one sure strikes home. I had come in after putting in a really scary new route in the Gunks and when I told my (ex) wife about it, who also climbed a bit, she said, "What are you doing? You can't do that. You're life is not your own anymore. You have a daughter now who needs you."

I had to admit she was right and started toning it down...for a while anyway.
frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95

^^^Reasonable enough.

George W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 6

As others have stated, having an experienced and trustworthy partner inspect your gear is great. I began to break that fear you're experiencing this summer with more falls in a month period than in a year of climbing. I felt more confident once I felt educated. I read "Climbing Anchors" and it helped me a lot.

Remember, if you're not falling, you're not trying hard enough.

Also, granite splitters builds confidence, sandstone develops caution.

frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95
George Williamson wrote: I read "Climbing Anchors" and it helped me a lot.
I read Basic Rockcraft and I was clueless. Probably still am.
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
frank minunni wrote: That doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I don't think anyone goes up on a trad route early on expecting to fall. You put your gear in and try not to fall. If you do, it's there to protect you. Unless you think that climbing stuff that's so easy that you're not going to fall I guess. At which point it becomes academic and has little real-world value.
It makes perfect sense. Harder climbing=higher probability of falling=higher expectation of falling.

It's all about matching perceived risk and actual risk. As climbing gets harder, the risk of falling gets higher. Your willingness to climb into difficulty that will lead to higher probability of falling needs to match up with your willingness to fall. Easier routes, in general, have more hazards (not all) and the consequences of a fall are usually higher than on harder, steeper routes. So it makes sense to not push into the "likely to fall" zone unless you are willing to risk higher consequence falls.

In general, as you climb harder, the routes gets cleaner and steeper and the falls are safer. Your willingness to push your climbing difficulty to, and past, the point of falling makes more sense when you are more confident that the consequences are lower.

Plus, newer climbers, who are most likely to be climbing easier routes, are precisely the people who are also the most likely to place bad gear. I think the adage "never push your climbing ability and your protection ability at the same time" is appropriate for newer climbers.

I think you've just been climbing so long that you've forgotten what it's like to be new to placing gear and being comfortable falling on it.
frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95
csproul wrote: I think you've just been climbing so long that you've forgotten what it's like to be new to placing gear and being comfortable falling on it.
Maybe, maybe not. When I started climbing there weren't many people climbing. I realized early that if I was willing to lead, I could find a partner at the Uberfall. I started leading on my second day and never looked back. But, and this is a big but, I don't recommend that approach for anyone.
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374
frank minunni wrote: That one sure strikes home. I had come in after putting in a really scary new route in the Gunks and when I told my (ex) wife about it, who also climbed a bit, she said, "What are you doing? You can't do that. You're life is not your own anymore. You have a daughter who who now needs you." I had to admit she was right and started toning it down...for a while anyway.
HA! I was brought into climbing by my son! Want a belayer who you really, really, really can trust? Teach Mom! I was more thinking of all those years with that kid beside me, which side of the truck would be "sacrificed" in a crash.

And, FYI, husband was a photojournalist also, with plenty of sketchy opportunities. I never expected him to back off from things he loved, but we have both held each other accountable for selfish stupidity.
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374

For all of you, thanks! The basic question about killing gear is answered, and I will now go full steam ahead!

I've not done any leads outside yet, a few inside, but I know myself well. I personally find every climb, no matter the grade, pretty difficult, so the only way I can climb at all is to go for it. I see no reason, in my case, to wait until I'm good at part A before I try part B. That day may never come.

So, my approach has been/is to learn absolutely as much as possible, know as many of the "gotchas" as I can from all of you, but then apply it in parallel rather than linear fashion. My learning has so far has followed that path, anyway. I was taught how to ascend with purcells, I think, before I even had climbed, and my first "climb" was a longish rappel!

I'll be looking at climbs in 5.10 range down, seconding (top rope, one way or the other) the higher end, and take a shot at leading as often as possible, sport with gear placed in between. I see no reason not to learn trad placements now, especially doing so on sport climbs with bolts for backup. Should be able to test every single placement with a real, if small, fall. Yay!

Hey Eli, I'll also take great care to do gear and clips left handed, from the start!

IMHO, climbers are one of the best parts of climbing. : )

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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