Bad anchors

Here is one of my favorites.

Sketchy Anchor

Brian C. wrote:I saw this one 2 days ago...

Id use it in a pinch.

Top of Prime Cut

Brad "Stonyman" Killough wrote: Id use it in a pinch.

You mean if you used it you would get yourself in a pinch. That falls under the "feels good pretend anchor" category.

round 2 woop woop!

And in sandstone no less. Oh well, its just some crazy canyoneer.

I like this thread. Here are two more I have...

This is the single bolt I rappelled from the summit of the Sword of Damocles]]. The summit block had a single line of old cord but it was much less inspirational than this obviously "quality" bolt. Needless to say, I was quite happy to be back on the ground.

Here is the final rappel anchor on West Pawnee Butte. We had placed another anchor of equalized nails but decided these looked a little more secure. I'd guess they were close to a hundred years old. The webbing was ours, placed from an earlier ascent.

Sketchy T-shirt sleeve and rock anchor.

This is a t-shirt sleeve anchored into a pocket with a rock.

I stumbled on this in Fort Leonard Wood, MO. I couldn't believe it when I found it.

Arianne Hendrick wrote: This is a t-shirt sleeve anchored into a pocket with a rock. I stumbled on this in Fort Leonard Wood, MO. I couldn't believe it when I found it.

Wow. Just wow.

14ers.com/usercontent/trips…

14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo…

rocknice2 wrote: 14ers.com/usercontent/trips… 14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo…

I took this photo of an anchor I'd built; the photo is used here completely out of context. While the rock was very poor, the lower three pieces were well placed and fully equalized for an upward pull. The green rope had run up and over the tower. The photo was taken after it was pulled and was intended to document the placements.

david goldstein wrote: I took this photo of an anchor I'd built; the photo is used here completely out of context. While the rock was very poor, the lower three pieces were well placed and fully equalized for an upward pull. The green rope had run up and over the tower. The photo was taken after it was pulled and was intended to document the placements.

3 questions:

1 why would you back up the figure 8 with half hitches

2 why would you back up the figure 8 at all

3 did you just leave all that gear up there? if not, how did you get down?

Well the hanger still looked purty good, but too bad about everything else...

Bomber

eli poss wrote: 3 questions: 1 why would you back up the figure 8 with half hitches 2 why would you back up the figure 8 at all 3 did you just leave all that gear up there? if not, how did you get down?

The half hitches, which my friend apparently added to the system after it was initially rigged, are just basic "safety" knots used to shorten the tail of the knot, akin to standard practice when tying into a harness.

The anchor was at ground level and was designed to hold only an upward pull. Read the full TR if you really want to know more.

eli poss wrote: 3 questions: 2 why would you back up the figure 8 at all 3 did you just leave all that gear up there?

The function of the half hitches is that an unweighted figure eight can come untied if jerked around enough. It has happened to me during an easy all day climb with no safely knot; it is terrifying.

was the 8 properly dressed and snuggly tightened? I have a very hard time believing a well tied figure 8 would shake undone like a bowline. plus, i'd imagine the half hitches would shake undone long before the 8 would

The knot was dressed and snugged down at the beginning of the day but there were no hanging belays so I never weighted the rope. I think squeeze/OW groveling throughout the day contributed to the state of the knot.

Found this recently at the top of Crooked Arrow Spire.

Who wants to highline???

Crooked Arrow Spire highline anchor.

They should have oriented the nut tool in the opposite direction, for it could possibly hook on something and save the day if all the rest of that failed.

Daisy wrapped through naked hanger... check.

Daisy girthed to high-line... check.

Maybe they could have used the extra nut tool carabiner in there somewhere?

There is a lot going on in that photo, and it makes me wonder what the other side looks like.

Edit to add:
I wonder if the shirt sleeve was intended to be just a marker of some sort.

Arianne Hendrick wrote: This is a t-shirt sleeve anchored into a pocket with a rock. I stumbled on this in Fort Leonard Wood, MO. I couldn't believe it when I found it.

We have a winner!