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Adrenaline Circus
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 20
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Routes in Podunk Mesa Tower
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Adrenaline Circus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Gofer T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Josh Gross and Noah Bigwood |
| Page Views: | 2,792 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 19, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is not a 4 star tower route, but it has interesting climbing and it is often warm and protected in the winter. ITs a bit obscure, so you probably won't meet anyone else up here, but its real close to town.
P1. From a small cedar below the south west face, go up and left through broken rock. A wide hand crack left of the broken corner is a bit easier to climb. Go over a roof and belay on a ledge on the west face. This pitches most redeemable quality is that it is over quickly... don't worry, the rock quality improves.
P2. Do face move protected by a bolt, perhaps 5.10+, then go up overlapping flakes to a large ledge about 60 feet above the last belay and below a large roof.
P3. Seems strange, but go up to the left in a short hand crack, then make slab moves, clipping bolts, across the slab above the belay. You want long runners for all your pro on this pitch. Move out right and around the arete and follow a good crack to another belay ledge. The slab is, at its hardest, 5.9 friction.
P4. This is the best of the group... make a hard 5.10 move out towards the arete, clip a bolt, then work your way up the arete with bolts for protection on very good rock. It breaks down into a corner, also protected by a bolt, then goes up some broken ground to the summit. This pitch is 10+ or 11-.
Rappel to the top of the 3rd pitch, then make a 160 foot rappel to the base.
All stations are bolted.
P1. From a small cedar below the south west face, go up and left through broken rock. A wide hand crack left of the broken corner is a bit easier to climb. Go over a roof and belay on a ledge on the west face. This pitches most redeemable quality is that it is over quickly... don't worry, the rock quality improves.
P2. Do face move protected by a bolt, perhaps 5.10+, then go up overlapping flakes to a large ledge about 60 feet above the last belay and below a large roof.
P3. Seems strange, but go up to the left in a short hand crack, then make slab moves, clipping bolts, across the slab above the belay. You want long runners for all your pro on this pitch. Move out right and around the arete and follow a good crack to another belay ledge. The slab is, at its hardest, 5.9 friction.
P4. This is the best of the group... make a hard 5.10 move out towards the arete, clip a bolt, then work your way up the arete with bolts for protection on very good rock. It breaks down into a corner, also protected by a bolt, then goes up some broken ground to the summit. This pitch is 10+ or 11-.
Rappel to the top of the 3rd pitch, then make a 160 foot rappel to the base.
All stations are bolted.
Photos
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