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Small cams: which of these do you think I'll use the most?

Original Post
Toad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

Thinking about buying some small cams. I already have BD C4 from 0.3 (blue) to 4 (grey), with some doubles.

Now I want some tiny ones, and I'm thinking about C3 00, 0, and 1.... OR TCU's 0, 1, and 2.

Any thoughts? Do you have any of these tiny sizes and never use them?

I'm not climbing any thin splitters per se, but I do occasionally wish I had some tiny cams when I go out for the day. Here is a chart for reference:

percious · · Bear Creek, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,190

I place my aliens in small places more than my metolius or c3. Not on your list. Their flexible head makes them stay in place better when the rope tugs on them, which gives me a better sense of security. I've also taken my largest fall on the yellow alien. YMMV.

-chris

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

Used to have the old TCUs #00 to #2, sold the and got the BD C3 #000-2.
The Metolius are more flexible, but the BDs have more contact area and burly cam stops (compared to the old gen Metolius).
Happy with the BD, the spring is pretty stiff (good thing).
And yes, always use with a runner if you may get some pull.

As well as for all micro cams, the range is really small so double up or be careful if you've got a runout after.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I have used Metolius tcu's since they came out..never had any issues.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

go with TCUs size 0-2. I prefer WC zeros but that's just personal preference. smaller than a 0 TCU, i'll go with a nut over a cam anyways so I don't see a point unless you're planning on aiding seams.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270

Do you care more about stability or head width? If head width, get C3s, if stability get something with 4 lobes. The rest is preference and willingness to pay

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Whatever you do, don't get the metolius grey 00.

Crummy camming range.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

In vertical cracks that are deep, they all work well. The flexible stem like Aliens, Mastercams and X4's are less prone to walking. In shallower cracks the C3's rule, TCU's come close. If the crack of just a series of thin, shallow pods then the best option is C3's. The u-stem of the TCU's gets in the way of proper alignment.

I mostly bring my small X4's or Aliens but if I know there will be lots of thin placements, the C3's are always on the rack.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640
Scott McMahon wrote:Whatever you do, don't get the metolius grey 00. Crummy camming range.
Agree big time..WC Zeros are much better in the tiny range
Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

Aliens and c3's have complementary ranges good head widths and high strengths for thesizes covered from 00 to 1 inch so black alien/purplec3, blue alien/greenc3, green alien/redc3, yellowalien/ yellow c3

Red alien is A nice one but I would get Totem cams in those sizes as well. I have a full set and the abilities of the totem are amazing.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 342

I would hold off on Aliens until they get their quality issues worked out. Go with Totem basics instead of Aliens.

Todd R · · Vansion, CO / WY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 40

I once whipped onto my red x4. it held. I've also taken several falls onto my blue tcu. Held in every case. They all work! Find some cheap ones :)

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,326

I like the wild country Heliums and C3's.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I made all my aliens in the late 90's and early 00's so I'm particular to them. I use them more than anything else on my rack.

With the current QC issues, definitely go for the Totem version, not Fixe.

I've heard of a lot of durability issues with x4 and Metolious. As Todd said, they all work.

If you place them a few times anything works. If you whip a lot and work routes on them, durability comes into play.

C3's are a specialty piece. No a bread and butter piece. They are magical in some of the smaller sizes though.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

Another thing that hasn't been mentioned is ballnuts. While they are a kind of specialty gear, the small ballnuts hold are more bomber than tiny cams. They do take a bit of learning, though, but provide better protection when the gear is tiny.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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