Does anyone have recommendations on good routes to toprope at the Gunks that are in the 5.9-5.11 range? They don't have to be the most amazing routes and, in the interest of keeping the leadable lines free, they probably should be a little less traveled. But I'm asking about routes that are adjacent to 5.8 leads or easier. Boldville to the Seasons looks good. Any recommendations for the Trapps and/or Nears?
Nerdy Gerdie The 10 across the carriage road from Nosedive/Retribution corners Phoebe Ridiculissima Ent's Line (from Sleepwalk rather than Ant's) The Fall (requires leading the 9- section on the Spring)
You can get the summer and winter off the Spring anchor too.
Jacob's Ladder and Squiggles direct are nice and pretty much only TR. Note that there is a very large block right on top of Jacob's which folks often use as part of the anchor, I've been able to get that block to move. I use anchors further back
Shitty Mitty is right near there, a little bit challenging to set up but pretty cool. Low Exposure is also there but I've never done it.
Dogs in Heat is on the Dirty Gertie block and is cool. Red Cabbage Right also.
Those routes on the back of that block (is it called Mental Block) might be a bit of an acquired taste, Sonia (very strenuous, supposedly 10a) in particular, tape highly advisable. There's a 12 down there too, looks cool but I haven't tried it yet.
Can TR To Be or Not To Be and Farewell to Fingers off of the Farewell to Arms Anchor.
Im with Gunkie.... go to Peterskill right down the road. All top ropes can be set via trail at the top of the cliff. Plus it's a cheaper entrance fee, which is a good thing if you're just top roping
A couple TRs in the Trapps that don't usually have leaders on them:
Ape and Essence (5.9+) is directly below the RMC P2 rap station.
Intergalactic Hitchhikers (5.9+) can be set up from the top of V3.
Sente (5.9) and Yenta (5.11a?) can be set up from P1 of Thin Slabs.
Space Invaders (5.10d) can be done from the top of Ursula P1 or Groovy (but back up the rap sling around the block, as it runs over a couple of sharp edges).
Gear anchors to TR Wegetables (5.10a) and Tennish Anyone (5.10c) are accessible with easy scrambling up to a ledge.
In the Nears you also can get to Tulip Mussel Garden (5.10d) from the top of Grease Gun Groove and can set a TR on Shitface (5.10c) either from Roseland or Gelsa.
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