Setting up the gendarme rappel during our descent off Bugaboo Spire. We rapped ~40ft from the notch, not the true south summit, then made an exposed "4th class" traverse climbers left followed by a downclimb with a fixed nut and cord to a bolted rappel, before reaching this rap.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia-Shushwap > Bugaboos > Bugaboo Spire

Setting up the gendarme rappel during our descent off Bugaboo Spire. We rapped ~40ft from the notch, not the true south summit, then made an exposed "4th class" traverse climbers left followed by a downclimb with a fixed nut and cord to a bolted rappel, before reaching this rap.

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Bugaboo Spire from near the saddle between it and Snowpatch.

Bugaboo Spire peeking through the alpine fog. As seen from Pigeon Spire.

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Mac Pedlow

Nov 9, 2015

“Setting up the gendarme rappel during our descent off Bugaboo Spire. We rapped ~40ft from the notch, not the true south summit, then made an exposed "4th class" traverse climbers left followed by a downclimb with a fixed nut and cord to a bolted rappel, before reaching this rap.”

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Nearby Photos

Route Overlay Descent from Bugaboo Spire.

The Vowell Group and Glacier from the Bugaboo-Crescent Col.<br>
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Rappelling from the summit of Bugaboo Spire.

The summit of Bugaboo Spire as seen from near the top of the Kain Route.

Bugaboo Spire from near the saddle between it and Snowpatch.

Setting up the gendarme rappel during our descent off Bugaboo Spire. We rapped ~40ft from the notch, not the true south summit, then made an exposed "4th class" traverse climbers left followed by a downclimb with a fixed nut and cord to a bolted rappel, before reaching this rap.

Bugaboo Spire peeking through the alpine fog. As seen from Pigeon Spire.

Bugaboo and the Crescent Spires

View from rope up ledge on Northeast ridge of Bugaboo

Rob rappeling, Snow Patch Spire in background

Summit panorama looking southwest

Sunrise alpenglow on the East Face of Bugaboo Spire.

Bugaboo Spire taken from the wrong approach chimney for the Northeast Ridge. The Kain Route is the ridge on the lefthand skyline and the Northeast Ridge is the on the right.

Bugaboo Spire seen from the SW

Making our way to the south summit. Photo taken by Montana John

Copied from MCR Reports (Association of Canadian Mountain Guides)<br>
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http://acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp <br>
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The following is a report from Tay Hanson, Senior Park Ranger for BC Parks. A major rockfall event occured yesterday that originated from above the climber's right side of the col. Coincidently, the old raps stations on that side of the col had been removed the previous day because of rockfall concerns. Also note that a new toilet was installed at Applebee to relieve the morning line-ups!<br>
<br>
Rain initiated rock and mud slide on 090711 at approx 0900 hrs.<br>
<br>
All rappel stations have been removed from the climbers right hand side of the col. This rap route was established during a time when snow and ice covered the scree slope but currently presents an unacceptable rock fall hazard to climbers lower on the col. <br>
<br>
Two chain stations have been added to the rap route on climbers left allowing for 3-4 30m rappels over the bergschrund, or more safely, 1 double rope rappel to below the rock island and then another to well below the bergschrund.<br>
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As you can see, the col is in disastrous condition and is best avoided.<br>
<br>
Also included is a pic of Applebees new rock toilet.<br>
<br>
Jeff Volp<br>
ACMG/BC Parks<br>
<br>

Bugaboo Spire, looking at Northeast ridge.

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