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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Intersection Rock
Billabong
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 21
votes
Routes in Intersection Rock
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Bat Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Beginner's Three T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Billabong T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bongledesh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Dead Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Death by Misadventure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Drawstring T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Elijah's Coming T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Fast Track T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Filet of Sole T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flake, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Bush Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Half Track T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Holy Smokes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X |
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Huevos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kool Aid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A4 |
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Left Ski Track T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Let It All Hang Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lower Right Ski Track T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mike's Books T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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North Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Outer Limit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Overhang Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Overpass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pinnacle Stand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Secovar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Shana Grant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sheepherder TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shovling-Cole T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southeast Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Southwest Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sympathy to the Devil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Traverse of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Underpass T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Upper Right Ski Track T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Water Chute T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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When Sheep Ran Scared T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Zigzag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | John Wolfe & Al Ruiz, March 1969, FFA: John Long, Bill Antel & Rick Accomazzo December 1973 |
| Page Views: | 3,163 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 30, 2005 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A good route with some good spice to it. At what I found to be the crux I was 2 meters above a bolt, but 3 meters above a small ledge. A possible ankle-breaker.
Billabong is on the west end of the south face. An easy crack and corner ascends 10 meters to a system of black flakes for a few meters - chicken heads and puzzle pieces that protect well, but have a nearby bolt anyway. The climb continues up and slightly right on smooth white rock, where a crux or two can be found. The holds are sloping and slick, at least in the sunny afternoon. I found the climb significantly harder than most area 5.10's and also harder than Runaway (11a?) and some other 5.11- face climbs.
The crux for me, (who went right) was moving out and right onto a chalked feature on a small point on the cliff, perhaps approaching the 3rd bolt. My partner, who did not fall on the other 5.10 face routes we did, gave up on the right hand way after a few falls and went left for a fall as well, before eventually making it in that direction.
A few of the other spaces between bolts also contained cruxes above protection, but none with significant ledge-hitting potential. Reaching the top of the main face involves a 6 meter runout on 5.10- climbing. If the climb Run For Your Life is exciting for you, this may cause some issues.
Upon reaching the sloping ledge, a few cams can go into horizontals before traversing left to a finishing pitch, or right to an anchor, which requires some re-enforcement or a complete replacement to be good, as the existing webbing is in very poor condition.
Billabong is on the west end of the south face. An easy crack and corner ascends 10 meters to a system of black flakes for a few meters - chicken heads and puzzle pieces that protect well, but have a nearby bolt anyway. The climb continues up and slightly right on smooth white rock, where a crux or two can be found. The holds are sloping and slick, at least in the sunny afternoon. I found the climb significantly harder than most area 5.10's and also harder than Runaway (11a?) and some other 5.11- face climbs.
The crux for me, (who went right) was moving out and right onto a chalked feature on a small point on the cliff, perhaps approaching the 3rd bolt. My partner, who did not fall on the other 5.10 face routes we did, gave up on the right hand way after a few falls and went left for a fall as well, before eventually making it in that direction.
A few of the other spaces between bolts also contained cruxes above protection, but none with significant ledge-hitting potential. Reaching the top of the main face involves a 6 meter runout on 5.10- climbing. If the climb Run For Your Life is exciting for you, this may cause some issues.
Upon reaching the sloping ledge, a few cams can go into horizontals before traversing left to a finishing pitch, or right to an anchor, which requires some re-enforcement or a complete replacement to be good, as the existing webbing is in very poor condition.
6 Comments