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Finger Injury Question

Original Post
Luke.d6 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 15

So today I had my 3 fingers inside of a pocket and fell. I experienced a lot of pain after falling but it quickly went away. I went to do the move again and couldn't grab the hold because of the pain. But I was find to grab all the other holds on the climb. After I got home I have investigated a bit more what makes it hurt and have also included pictures.

I have no pain in either of the first two images. but as soon as I drop my pinkey finger I get a lot of pain running from my ring finger into my forearm.
My range of motion is fine without pressure. I can clench my fist, extend my fingers, but as soon as I put too much pressure on with my pinkey dropped or if I lay my arm down, hold my ring finger down with my other hand and then try to lift my ring finger (if that makes sense) it hurts as well.

Do I have a flexor tendon issue? If so what do I do!?

No Pain

No Pain Either

Radiating Pain

Dave Shepard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

I'm definitely not qualified to give advice, but..
It sounds like you strained your tendon in your ring finger
I guess it's the most common tendon, or pulley (A2.. I think.?) to injure. Just take a week or two off and see if it goes away. Maybe ice and lightly stretch it. That sucks tho..

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

How old are you and do you have any Scandinavian blood (Incl. Scottish/Norman French, etc)? Diabetic? (in the family?) Smoker? Heavy drinker?
No, this is not a joke.
Of course, if the problem does not get better soon, or gets worse with regular activity, you should go see a hand specialist.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

Read Dave MacLeod about flexor unit syndrome.

Better yet, purchase his new book: Make or Break
so you'll have the best public advice currently available about lots of other potential climbing injuries.

Ken

Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,158
drjuliansaunders.com/ask-dr…

You may or may not find this useful. Macleod has covered this in detail as well.
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Luke.d6 wrote:So today I had my 3 fingers inside of a pocket and fell. I experienced a lot of pain after falling but it quickly went away. I went to do the move again and couldn't grab the hold because of the pain. But I was find to grab all the other holds on the climb. After I got home I have investigated a bit more what makes it hurt and have also included pictures. I have no pain in either of the first two images. but as soon as I drop my pinkey finger I get a lot of pain running from my ring finger into my forearm. My range of motion is fine without pressure. I can clench my fist, extend my fingers, but as soon as I put too much pressure on with my pinkey dropped or if I lay my arm down, hold my ring finger down with my other hand and then try to lift my ring finger (if that makes sense) it hurts as well. Do I have a flexor tendon issue? If so what do I do!?
It sounds like you have Pocket Trauma (mentioned by that name in the link to Dr. J above, MacLeod calls it something different in his book). The good thing about this injury is that you can continue to climb. In my experience it helps to buddy tape the injured finger to the finger next to it to keep it from curling into the palm without the other fingers. Give it a few weeks and it'll heal on its own. Sometimes it takes a couple of months before you're totally pain free, just try not to do anything that causes pain while climbing.
ChossKing King · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Hey, this could be an impingement in your carotid artery. Do both pinkies hurt or just one?

Luke.d6 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 15

Tony B: I am Irish Canadian with smokers and one alcoholic.

Jon Clark and Kennoyce : based on the description that sounds like that is it. I still might take some time off climbing because of my second issue which is I just started bouldering for my first time and I think I have been over crimping so some of my fingers hurt.

But I might take a look at the book KenR Suggested.

Thanks for all the help Everyone.

And it's pain in only one singular ring finger no pinkies Choss King.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
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