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Ice Tool advice

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

Just curious how you think they compare to the Quantum techs?

Steven Kovalenko · · Calgary · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

Hook out the second tooth, and your Nomics won't get stuck anymore. This is mandatory for all my new Petzl picks, for all types of climbing (alpine/ice/drytooling). It makes the biggest performance difference out of all the modifications Will does, IMO.

willmayo.us/sharpening-petz…

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118
J. Serpico wrote:Just curious how you think they compare to the Quantum techs?
Totally different tools. QTs are more alpine focused whereas Raptors are more hard water ice and mixed focused. What type of terrain do you find yourself climbing most often?
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
J. Serpico wrote:Just curious how you think they compare to the Quantum techs?
Raptors have a better grip, much easier to hold than the QTs. And I find they stick better with a light swing; QTs often require a couple taps. Yea, I'm a "light touch" kinda guy.

And no question, Raptors are easier to swap out picks. And cheaper. Get a pair on the For Sale forum right now for <$140 apiece.
Tim Neumann · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 40

Hey guys. Reviving this thread to ask about buying new tools. I’m going to be taking a course on mixed climbing next season and I’m currently thinking about what tools to save up for.

I don’t really see myself climbing a whole lot of waterfall ice in the future but I’m more interested in doing couloirs and mixed routes up and down the alps. For most people seeking advice on the topic it seems to be the other way round, hence my asking.

This far I’ve been looking at the usual suspects such as the BD Vipers and DMM Apex. Both of which have a straight grip rather than an ergonomic one. They look more basic than let’s say Petzl Nomics or DMM Switches and seem more suited for a beginner such as myself. Is that conclusion accurate? I wouldn’t want to over-do it with some extreme mixed tools being a total noob. especially if for example the Vipers will do just fine even if used on mixed routes most of the time. But I’m also thinking that it might make more sense to buy a dedicated mixed tool if mixed is what I plan on doing mostly and also keeping in mind that the tools should work fine in a few seasons when ambitions and skills advance.

Do you guys have any recommendations on what to get?

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195
Tim Neumann wrote:

Hey guys. Reviving this thread to ask about buying new tools. I’m going to be taking a course on mixed climbing next season and I’m currently thinking about what tools to save up for.

I don’t really see myself climbing a whole lot of waterfall ice in the future but I’m more interested in doing couloirs and mixed routes up and down the alps. For most people seeking advice on the topic it seems to be the other way round, hence my asking.

This far I’ve been looking at the usual suspects such as the BD Vipers and DMM Apex. Both of which have a straight grip rather than an ergonomic one. They look more basic than let’s say Petzl Nomics or DMM Switches and seem more suited for a beginner such as myself. Is that conclusion accurate? I wouldn’t want to over-do it with some extreme mixed tools being a total noob. especially if for example the Vipers will do just fine even if used on mixed routes most of the time. But I’m also thinking that it might make more sense to buy a dedicated mixed tool if mixed is what I plan on doing mostly and also keeping in mind that the tools should work fine in a few seasons when ambitions and skills advance.

Do you guys have any recommendations on what to get?

I have both vipers and switches. I got the switches specifically for mixed Climbing as they are super burly and every time I would try to match on a single viper, it’d pop off (hence the name switches). I like them. Very well made like all DMM gear. I’m probably more in the noob category myself when it comes to mixed but that’s been my experience 

Dave Deming · · Grand Junction CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 25

Have both BD vipers and fusions. I swapped out the original fusion picks for the fusion ice pick and love it. When it comes to alpine or snow/ice climbing, I’m sticking with the vipers, as it’s easier with the adze. The fusions are pretty much a mixed/cragging tool (ice park, one pitch etc). Bought both sets used and with care they’ve done me well. 

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Tim Neumann wrote:

Hey guys. Reviving this thread to ask about buying new tools. I’m going to be taking a course on mixed climbing next season and I’m currently thinking about what tools to save up for.

I don’t really see myself climbing a whole lot of waterfall ice in the future but I’m more interested in doing couloirs and mixed routes up and down the alps. For most people seeking advice on the topic it seems to be the other way round, hence my asking.

This far I’ve been looking at the usual suspects such as the BD Vipers and DMM Apex. Both of which have a straight grip rather than an ergonomic one. They look more basic than let’s say Petzl Nomics or DMM Switches and seem more suited for a beginner such as myself. Is that conclusion accurate? I wouldn’t want to over-do it with some extreme mixed tools being a total noob. especially if for example the Vipers will do just fine even if used on mixed routes most of the time. But I’m also thinking that it might make more sense to buy a dedicated mixed tool if mixed is what I plan on doing mostly and also keeping in mind that the tools should work fine in a few seasons when ambitions and skills advance.

Do you guys have any recommendations on what to get?

 If you’re taking a course they’ll be lots of tools around to try out. Courses usually have demos along with them or the company has loaner tools. The people taking courses are always friendly and will lend you their tools to try for a lap. The Guides should too. Try as many tools as you can during course. Get advice from the Guides teaching the course then make your decision. More than likely the course may offer a discount at a local retailer.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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