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Beginner Ice Climber Advice

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625
CCChanceR wrote:Yer gunna die?
+1 The Winner!
frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95
CCChanceR wrote:Yer gunna die?
Probably, but if you do, there's always next week.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
CCChanceR wrote:What makes you say leading ice is easier than leading rock? I'd definitely disagree with that. Maybe ice climbing is physically easier than most rock, but there's a lot more at play, the protection is more difficult, and the consequences are definitely higher! Don't fall leading ice!
The climbing should be super casual, the pro is easier to place correctly and you place way less pro on a pitch of ice.

I agree with you about the consequences. It seems like less and less leaders believe in that these days.

Nick, think about this a beginner could easily complete 100 pitches in one week on a climbing vacation. That's five days of 20 laps of TR.
AThomas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25
Dave Dillon wrote: Great stuff! How early is too early? I don't want to schedule a course and then have thin ice to work with. I know Black Dike on Cannon was climbed on October 20th but things have warmed up since then. Maybe Late December is a good time? Honestly the whole reason I want to get into it is for multi-pitch gully climbs in New Hampshire! Think Pinnacle , shoestring, hancock, etc... Love the idea of topping out near a summit. Mixing hiking and climbing for some technical adventures. I'd love to make some experienced friends... but I literally know no one who climbs (rock or ice). Maybe I'll just start lurking around Frankenstein cliffs asking people if they want to grab a beer.
Lurking around Frankenstein (or IME) is not a terrible idea -- especially if you're a good judge of people.

It all depends on the weather. You're rolling the dice when booking ahead of time, but you may risk not being able to find a guide if you don't book in advance. If you can go mid-week, obviously, I'd say just wait until people start posting ice reports online and then call whomever to get out ASAP.

Hitchcock Gully would be a fun objective for you after you get a solid few days in, depending on your fitness and climbing ability. I have some relative beginner friends that I'll probably be getting out with this winter. Keep in touch. We may do an early-season Adirondacks or NH trip. Probably mostly toprope, confidence building.
Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

One possibility:

http://www.amcbostonclimbers.com/events-calendar/2015/11/30/ice-program-lecture-1-required to ice climb

Most folks that take it have more rock experience though

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188
Dave Dillon wrote: Great stuff! How early is too early? I don't want to schedule a course and then have thin ice to work with. I know Black Dike on Cannon was climbed on October 20th but things have warmed up since then. Maybe Late December is a good time? Honestly the whole reason I want to get into it is for multi-pitch gully climbs in New Hampshire! Think Pinnacle , shoestring, hancock, etc... Love the idea of topping out near a summit. Mixing hiking and climbing for some technical adventures. I'd love to make some experienced friends... but I literally know no one who climbs (rock or ice). Maybe I'll just start lurking around Frankenstein cliffs asking people if they want to grab a beer.
black dike actually went down on the 19th! :)

ive been up shoestring probably over a dozen times. happy to take you up there.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
CCChanceR wrote:What makes you say leading ice is easier than leading rock? I'd definitely disagree with that. Maybe ice climbing is physically easier than most rock, but there's a lot more at play, the protection is more difficult, and the consequences are definitely higher! Don't fall leading ice!
BITD there was a book that said "One can become proficient on rock in one year, but it takes 5 years to get to the same level on ice". Or something to that effect.
rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

I'll second the recommendation to get a 1:1 course or at most 2:1. Costs more but you get the best bang for your buck. If your a quick study a one day lesson might be enough. Two days should be all you need. Make sure to tell them that you want to learn how to make anchors. That way you can safely TR the rest of the season.

Definitely don't need to rock climb before you hit the ice. I know a few ice climbers that have never touched rock. You'll know when your ready to lead climb.

End of December is a safe bet for ice. Mid January for sure.

In terms of equipment sound like you got all you need to take a lesson. You can have enough pairs of gloves. Thick warm ones for belaying and when not climbing. Thinner but still insulated ones with high dexterity for climbing. It's very similar to winter hiking. Dress down when active, dress up when passive.

Dave Dillon · · Tewksbury · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 180
Zac.St.Jules wrote: black dike actually went down on the 19th! :) ive been up shoestring probably over a dozen times. happy to take you up there.
Thanks for the offer! I'll definitely be pinging you when the ice comes in.
Dave Dillon · · Tewksbury · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 180

On a gear related note. I think I have everything I need... proper layers, Ice Tools, Boots and Crampons, Harness, Helmet, a few locking biners and an ATC belay device. Is there anything I'm missing for basic top roping?

Thanks.

TheIceManCometh · · Albany, NY · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 621

For top-roped ice climbing, you might need 100' or so of static line depending where the nearest anchors are situated. You may want a few ice screws for the anchors or as re-directs.

Oh, and you need a dynamic rope!

[quote] Dave said: On a gear related note. I think I have everything I need... proper layers, Ice Tools, Boots and Crampons, Harness, Helmet, a few locking biners and an ATC belay device. Is there anything I'm missing for basic top roping?

Thanks.[/quote]

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969
Dave Dillon wrote:On a gear related note. I think I have everything I need... proper layers, Ice Tools, Boots and Crampons, Harness, Helmet, a few locking biners and an ATC belay device. Is there anything I'm missing for basic top roping? Thanks.
Ice clippers are very convenient but not necessary for top roping. I like the Petzl Caritool kind.
Dave Dillon · · Tewksbury · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 180
TheIceManCometh wrote:For top-roped ice climbing, you might need 100' or so of static line depending where the nearest anchors are situated. You may want a few ice screws for the anchors or as re-directs. Oh, and you need a dynamic rope! [quote] Dave said: On a gear related note. I think I have everything I need... proper layers, Ice Tools, Boots and Crampons, Harness, Helmet, a few locking biners and an ATC belay device. Is there anything I'm missing for basic top roping? Thanks.[/quote]
Thanks, I'm hoping to tag along with someone who will be building the anchors at first... Until I can get a bit more experience.
Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 392

Hi Dave,

Personally I think you have a great shot at getting into the sport. It's not all that complicated: get some gear, warm clothes, find people to do it with, and then VOILA get out on some easy ice, -- and you're off and running.

Ice climbing is probably the most fun thing in the world. Your idea of long gully ascents sounds fantastic. I want to do that, too. Swinging and hitting the ice is a thrill. Be confident and know that you can do it. Stay on terrain thats within your capabilities. USE YOUR LEGS

Have the time of your life, dude!

Russ

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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