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Crampons: Petzl Lynx vs Grivel G22

Original Post
Clint White aka Faulted Geologist · · Lawrence, KS · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 151

I originally liked the Grivel G12, then saw the G14, and while searching for a G14 video, found the G22. Hoping someone can compare it to the Petzl Lynx crampon.

I am weary of things that have lots of adjustments when I will be supported by them underfoot where visibility is nil. Any input on them or other fav technical crampons? Specifically for me to fit on the Lowa Weisshorn, but they both claim great adjustability.

Petzl Lynx video
youtu.be/OkhKdIq8iqs

Grivel G22 video
youtu.be/giqL9jvJu8g

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

you're sort of comparing apples with oranges here. Lynx is a modular crampon with replaceable frontpoints, the G22 is not. G22 will be much lighter, likely climb ice a bit better and not last as long. Monopoints will be better for mixed climbing/hard ice. The lynx will give you the flexibility to do both. You'd be better off trying to compare the dartwin and the g22.

kevino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0

Why would the g22 climb way better than the lynx?

kevino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0

And for what its worth, I climbed on the dartwin for several years before switching to the Lynx and enjoy the lynx more. Plus I can use it with my scrap rebel carbons! 2 for 1.

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

I said "a bit better" as in it would be a marginal improvement - lower profile, lighter crampon. but you're right, it probably wouldn't be a noticeable improvement unless you were at the top of your game.

kevino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0

Sorry, I saw the modifier in regards to weight and thought you said the same thing about performance. Overall I agree with you though. For most people the ~150 g weight difference and profile probably won't be noticed by most, especially if they are paired with an already heavier ice boot.

Clint White aka Faulted Geologist · · Lawrence, KS · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 151

Regardless of the past couple posts and top of game performance, my question was more about durability and safety while in route. Something like moving crampon points did not seem ideal to me but the idea of a single crampon for all disciplines seemed pretty awesome. One review were noted a broken front paw on one of theclimbs he was doing but I guess that's why they're replaceable?

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

G20!

Steven Kovalenko · · Calgary · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25
coldthistle.blogspot.ca/201…

Some thoughts from Dane Burns on some of the crampons you mentioned.

The G14 vs. Lynx vs. Cyborg would be your comparison. I prefer the lightness and simplicity of dedicated mono and dual point crampons, and do not run a modular crampon anymore.

Changing out the frontpoints on the Lynx is very easy, and I would strongly lean towards the Lynx out of all of the modular crampons. I liked them when I had them.
alpinejason · · Minneapolis · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 176
Theriault wrote:G20!
G20/G22 combo!

I think the modular crampons are a slight compromise (more moving parts, heavier, hassle to change mono/dual etc.). I still stand by Grivel having far and away the best metallurgy in the business if you're worried about durability. Will they last forever? No, but neither will the other manufactures. I wore the secondary points on a pair of BD Stingers to nubs after a season so having a modular front points was kind of moot.
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Clint White wrote:Regardless of the past couple posts and top of game performance, my question was more about durability and safety while in route. Something like moving crampon points did not seem ideal to me but the idea of a single crampon for all disciplines seemed pretty awesome. One review were noted a broken front paw on one of theclimbs he was doing but I guess that's why they're replaceable?
Everything breaks, the G20's went through a pseudo recall for a poorly designed link bar interface that broke in use. I've climbed ice in Darts, Dartwins, G20's, and Lynx. I like the G20 because they are rigid and fit better than almost every other crampon made except for maybe Rambos. However, the Lynx are highly adjustable which which allows me to tailor their fit to my needs instead of getting lucky (or unlucky) with boot and crampon combinations. I climb better with the Lynx because they fit and are set up how I like them. I've never considered changing points mid route and think it is potentially dangerous.
Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

I would be wary getting on a big alpine route with anything that wasn't the G20/G22/Dart/Dartwin design. Frontpoint bolts do shear (the last one I broke was only 2 months old, on cyborgs) and you would be really fucked with nonfunctioning 'pons in some spots.

I always suggest that people have a pair of beater crampons they'll use 90% of the time for cragging and low key alpine routes, and then a pair of 'sending' pons (I have G20s and really like them) that they'll use for big trips where they need to have functioning gear.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

The real moral of the story is not to climb on BD crampons.

They all break though.

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310
Ray Pinpillage wrote:The real moral of the story is not to climb on BD crampons. They all break though.
post of the week!!!!!

Still love my G20's tho hah a
Paul33 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0
Theriault wrote:G20!
Good!! G20 !
Clint White aka Faulted Geologist · · Lawrence, KS · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 151

The G20 doesn't look like a great approach crampon due to not having the antibot on the front. Is it pretty much a dedicated vertical crampon?

I scored a G14 pair that is in great condition. Thanks for all the input.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506
Ray Pinpillage wrote:The real moral of the story is not to climb on BD crampons. They all break though.
G20 design was changed due to this, I think some people also filed down the central point near the hinge to help in stability.
Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

The G20 is an amazing crampon - in the right hands(feet!) - it's not as immediately user friendly as the G14. Think of the G20 as an "experts only" crampon, while the G14 is a "beginners to experts" crampon. Sounds like you got a good score for starting you out.

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310
Clint White wrote:The G20 doesn't look like a great approach crampon due to not having the antibot on the front. Is it pretty much a dedicated vertical crampon?
They walk very well! the front part natrually sheds snow ...
Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

The only comment I have about lynx having not personally climbed with it is that my buddy abandoned it in favor of a set of stingers as the front points tended to be almost pigeon toed in with his particular boot combo. Some other people have noted this as well to varying degrees.

I currently have the G22 and my first impressions after just a day are good. I'll have to wait for my bladerunners to get back to compare the two.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
Theriault wrote: They walk very well! the front part natrually sheds snow ...
I'll second that the G20's walk well and shed snow very well.

Plus the second horizontal point comes into play quite often
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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