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Core shots while jugging, solutions?

Original Post
greg t · · Chevy, Silverado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,480

I've core shot 3 ropes this year while jugging fixed lines. Time for a solution...

1) Stop jugging lines that are over sharp edges.. duh. Unfortunately this isn't always possible, and has been the cause of all 3 core shots this year.

2) I was thinking of using 6" of garden hose. Cut it vertically. Place over the rope and tape in place to pad any edges that the fixed line is running over.

Are there any other solutions to this problem that you know of?

Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10,406

There are commercially available rope protectors out there, such as Spiroll, so you don't have to try to create your own with a garden hose. And, they'll be much easier to use. My favorite is Petzl's: amazon.com/Petzl-Protec-Rop…

Chase Bowman · · Durango, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 1,010

I've seen some videos of people on el cap and they'll use duck tape to cover the sharp edge. not sure if it would leave a residue on the rock though.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759

Although it isn't possible in every situation, re-belaying the fixed rope around bulges and overhangs is the ticket. It adds time passing knots and potentially lowering out (which you might not want if you are fixing-and-blasting a long aid climb), but it saves your rope from damage.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Based on the insane bouncing that I've seen climbers do while jugging, I'd say try to be a bit less jerky in your movement. I know everyone is in a hurry, but jerky = more rope sawing.

John McNamee · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 1,690

The spiroll edge protectors work well. Are you using static ropes?

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,520

Greg's diagram is great, the spirol is okay but can wear out quickly depending on the type of rock. The beal rope protector is more expensive, but made out more durable materials.

greg t wrote: 2) I was thinking of using 6" of garden hose. Cut it vertically. Place over the rope and tape in place to pad any edges that the fixed line is running over.
This works too, the only thing I would do to improve it is punch a small hole in the top of the hose (tie on point) and use a prussik to secure it to the rope rather than tape. A lot easier to move around.
bevans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0

+1 for the re-belay option above. Simple solution with multiple ways to rig depending on the scenario. Allows the rope around the sharp feature to still be utilized for jugging if need be.

Marty C · · Herndon, VA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 70

Another idea is to isolate the fixed rope near the area where there is abrasion by tying 2 loop knots (i.e. Butterfly), one above the point of abrasion and the other below the point of abrasion.

A short section of static rope can be attached to the 2 loop knots. All the abrasion would be on the static line, not the fixed rope.

A crude diagram is attached.

Obviously, this wouldn't work all the time, just another option.

protecting the fixed line while jugging

Jayson Nissen · · Monterey, CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 469

I have used tygon tubing to protect my rope when TR soloing. I have found that it holds itself in place with just a little tape to keep it closed. I would want to test it's ability to stay in place when jugging though.

greg t · · Chevy, Silverado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,480

Thanks for all your feedback! I bought the petzel protec, I'm sure it will do the trick.
I have used the re-belay method in the past, but sometimes its not possible in certain situations.
I really like the double butterfly isolation trick as a handy backup method. Good thinkin!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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