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Elevation: 1,050 ft
GPS: -41.4117, -72.1247
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Shared By: Sevve Elliot on Feb 25, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Eric Och

Description Suggest change

From user Daniel Seeliger

Visitors have labeled this Chilean valley the Yosemite of South America. Its similarities - surrounded by bigwalls, waterfalls and international climbing scene - also contribute to its unique differences - no roads thus no vehicles, no rangers, lush forest and a rainier (Squamish-like) climate.

This must-visit destination provides more than 200+ routes and potential beyond the imagination. Thousand meter granite walls border the valley along the Cochamó River. Atop the valley walls granite peaks and beautiful vistas stand everywhere, some with views to the Pacific Ocean, others into Argentina (Cerro Tronador, Aguja Principal - Frey).

Cochamó's climbing history started only recently in 1998. Its first three routes were established on Trinidad (Ides of March, Sundance, Welcome to the Jungle) in 1998. These routes were possible thanks to the dedicated efforts of British Crispin Waddy who had arrived the previous year and macheted for days through the thick bamboo to establish a trail to Trinidad's base, thus the genesis of climbing in Cochamó.

There are many committing traditional routes, big walls, and crags, even the overhanging mostly sport crag that stays dry during rainy days.

Overall the rock quality is excellent, and its texture can vary from wall to wall. If you want to open a new routes, it will likely need some degree of cleaning - some loads, others almost nil.

Getting There Suggest change

Getting to Puerto Montt / Puerto Varas

If you are heading to Valle Cochamó from Santiago (Chile) or Bariloche (Argentina), you must get to Puerto Montt. Some of the options to get there are below.

Air: There are a few flights a day from Santiago to Puerto Montt. The flight lasts two hours. From Bariloche, there is three flights a week and takes about 30 minutes. If you're coming from the south, there are direct flights from Punta Arenas (near Torres del Paine) and Coiyque.

Ferry: If you're arriving from the south, numerous ferrys go to Puerto Montt from Puerto Natales (near Torres del Paine), Puerto Aiysen and Chaiten.

Bus: Buses from Santiago leave in the afternoon or night and arrive early the next day. There are different classes of buses, some of which are quite confortable. Various Bariloche-Puerto Montt buses leave from early morning to early afternoon. There are no night buses.

Private vehicle. If you come in your own vehicle from the north, it's not necessary to drive all the way to Puerto Montt. From the Panamericana, Route 5, get off at the Puerto Varas exit. Get on the road along the coast heading southeast and eventually east - Highway 225. If you're coming from Bariloche, keep in mind that the border closes at 8 p.m. and opens 8 a.m. It's also possible to come from the south via the Carretera Austral but only January through February because of the ferry that connects Parque Pumalin and Horno Piren.

From Puerto Montt / Puerto Varas to Cochamó town and trailhead

Most travelers arrive from Puerto Varas, but it's also possible to take other gravel roads that arrive from the south - Puelo, Horno Piren, Parque Pumalín. Below are options for arriving from Puerto Varas or Puerto Montt.

Private vehicle: From Puerto Montt or coming from the north, go to Puerto Varas and get on the coastal road that heads southeast and turns into Highway 225 heading towards Ensenada and Volcán Osorno. After less than an hour you'll pass through Ensenada and the highway will turn heading south. A few kilometers out of Ensenada you'll arrive to a major junciton. Vere right and head in the direction Ralun-Cochamó. After half an hour, you'll arrive to Ralun and you'll cross the bridge spanning the Río Petrohue, where the turns to gravel. The gravel road narrows and borders the Estuary Relonquavi's coast for 30 kilometers until you reach the Cochamó town. This is the last place to buy supplies or arrange for pack horses. Continue past the town three kilometers. The road edges along first the estuary and then parallels the Cochamó River, entering the Cochamó Valley. Just before getting to the bridge that spans the Cocahamó River, turn left (norhteast) on a gravel road and continue eight kilometers to its end. You can park your car in the road or for $2,000 pesos a day, in the Camping Los Pozones.

Buses to Cochamó depart from bus terminal in Puerto Montt

Vía Lago Sur (65-971788) departs:

07:45, 12:00, 16:00

Buses Rio Puelo (65-544226) departs:

08:00, 14:30, 16:30

Costs $2000 (Chilean pesos) and takes 2 hours

# public transportation: From Puerto Montt there are six buses daily to the town of Cochamó or Cochamó-River bridge. The trip takes more than two hours. It's important to know that buses will NOT stop in Puerto Varas if full leaving Puerto Montt's terminal. This is especially common during the busy traveling season of January and February. From the Cochamó-River bridge, the trailhead is located eight kilometers up river following a gravel road. If you are planning to hire pack horses or save energy for the hike in, it's recommended to get off in town and catcha a shuttle or taxi.

Cochamó town to trailhead

It's recommended to take a shuttle / taxi from Cochamó town to the trailhead. Fit hikers and those not in a hurry can get off the bus at the bridge three kilometers past town and hike the gravel road eight kilometers up to the trailhead. Otherwise tell the bus driver to drop you off in Pueblo Hundido - Cochamó.

Shuttles / taxis: There are many automobile owners willing to transport people to the trailhead, some of which include jumping into the back of a pickup.

The town is small enough to ask almost anyone where to catch a shuttle or taxi.

Trailhead to the Refugio Cochamó (La Junta)

At the end of the road or trailhead, cross a small bridge and pass through a gate. From that point, hiking into the valley takes four to six hours. The trail is well marked and never crosses the Cochamó River. The hiking is relatively easy except for crossing through some trenches, pools and streams, which can become more difficult when or after it rains. Water proof hiking boots are highly recommended. Gaitors or rubber boots help significantly in wet conditions. Continue until you get to La Junta River, the center of activities and accomodation in the valley.

Check out cochamo.com for all the latest logistical information and great detailed maps of the area, such as a comprehensive set of topos, maintained by Daniel Seeliger.

(Temporary) Organizational Note

Suggest change

Hey! I (Eric Och) am the new admin here as the whole area was formerly admin-less. My idea for organizing it is to consider the main valley (Rio Cochamo, Trawen, Camping La Junta) as having side valleys (Anfiteatro, Trinidad, Valle La Junta) and for all the main climbing to be sorted into one of those by listing the features (walls or peaks as appropriate) within each valley and then sorting climbs onto their respective features. If you feel like I've placed a feature into the wrong valley let me know or a climb onto the wrong feature please let me know! This is a work in progress. And if you feel like a valley, feature or route is missing and you've been on it, add it! Now that there's some organization hopefully it feels worth it to contribute

Feel free to reach out to me about anything Cochamo

Thanks,

Eric

54 Total Climbs

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Location: Valle Cochamó Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Valle Cochamó

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Apnea
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
La Presencia de mi Padre
Trad, Alpine 28 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 35
E.Z. Does It
Trad 9 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 29
Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio
Trad 20 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
No Hay Hoyes
Trad 6 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Surfing For Stone
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 33
Camp Farm
Trad 7 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
Through the Looking Glass
Trad 10 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 18
Todo Cambia
Trad 9 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 47
Al Centro y Adentro
Trad 12 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 4
Flakes of Wrath
Trad 6 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 20
Las Manos del Dia
Trad 12 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
La Pluma del Cóndor
Trad 7 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Positive Affect
Trad, Sport 19 pitches
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
 7
Entre Cristales Y Cóndores
Trad, Aid 11 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Apnea La Cebra (The Zebra)
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
La Presencia de mi Padre El Monstruo
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 28 pitches
E.Z. Does It Valle Trinidad > Cerro Trinidad > Trinidad Norte
 35
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 9 pitches
Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio Valle Trinidad > Cerro Trinidad > Trinidad Norte
 29
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 20 pitches
No Hay Hoyes Valle Trinidad > Pared Silverback
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 6 pitches
Surfing For Stone Anfiteatro > Paciencia
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Camp Farm Valle La Junta > Cerro La Junta
 33
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 7 pitches
Through the Looking Glass Anfiteatro > El Espejo
 15
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 10 pitches
Todo Cambia Anfiteatro > Pared del Tiempo
 18
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 9 pitches
Al Centro y Adentro Anfiteatro > Atardecer
 47
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 12 pitches
Flakes of Wrath Anfiteatro > Escudo
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad 6 pitches
Las Manos del Dia Valle Trinidad > Cerro Trinidad > Trinidad Central
 20
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 12 pitches
La Pluma del Cóndor Valle Trinidad > Cerro Laguna
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 7 pitches
Positive Affect Arco Iris
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport 19 pitches
Entre Cristales Y Cóndores Anfiteatro > Atardecer
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1 Trad, Aid 11 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Valle Cochamó »

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