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approach shoes

Original Post
rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

so time for new shoes as my current pair are starting to fall apart. What are peoples take on the La Sportiva Mix vs Explorer and Evolve Cruzer Psych. I'm interested in the arch support (i have high one) , durability, function, fit. Obviously cant try them on around where i live so...

Main uses will be SE crag approached and scrambling but also descent shoes as well for multi pitch routes hence the lighter variations of these shoes as opposed to Boulder X etc...

webdog · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 0

It's not the same shoe but I've got the 5.10 guide tennies and they've got soft flat soles w crummy no support insoles. I'm not familiar w what you've listed..
Carrying a pack would make my arches collapse. I pulled those out and used the blue super feet which are lower profile that the green version. Just size super feet properly as the sizes listed on the box are general guidelines, I went up a size and did some trimming. I've got a medium arch and the shoes are now comfy

bmdhacks · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,633

Just got a pair of the Cruzer Psyche and they seem to have fixed all the problems with the Cruzer. My old pair of Cruzers pretty much exploded all the stitching from wear before I wore down the soles.

If you want support, Cruzers aren't for you, but they're literally half the weight of the next-lightest approach shoe out there, and the lining makes them feel amazing over bare feet. I have a pair of green superfeet, but I didn't stuff them in this time because the Cruzer insoles have a softer material for bare feet. With all the emphasis on keeping your rack light, clipping light approach shoes to your harness for the walk-off seems like a no-brainer.

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

thanks for the beta. i normally run high arched insoles (actually almost all my shoes) in my approach shoes. Any word on the Mix? I tend to like sportiva shoes but the cruzers are so light

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

Not the lightest but have good support for me - Scarpa Epic Alpine Cross. Wears well. I have not tried climbing in them but they are good on slick approaches.

webdog · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 0

What features do you value the most? I looked online and the Mix seems the closest to the 5.10 guide tennie, good for technical approaches and would probably take an aftermarket insole. The Explorer has a much larger midsole so it'll have more support, think Laurel Knob approach or even trail running, you should also be able to put an insole in these. The Evolves are very minimal and the lightest, think whitesides, not a heinous approach and where you can top out.
If you have arch issues I highly recommend aftermarket insoles, just get them fitted. Solé is another brand and they tend to have higher arch support than super feet. They make a low profile support for running and a higher profile for boots, etc. if you've got ?'s @ fitting the supports, I can help. I'm not an expert but I know enough to get you in the right direction
Hope these observations help...

Mike Hasse · · New York, NY · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 365

I just consigned my LS mix in favor of the guide tennies because the Mix didn't stick well on approaches...the number one thing an approach shoe should do. The stealth rubber on 5.10 shoes is the stickiest I've ever used. I also have a pair of LS gandas that I use for alpine climbing and those are great, though expensive and a bit niche. I use the 5.10 guide tennies for most of my cragging approaches.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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