Lowa Weisshorn GTX vs Latok with Built In Gaitor for Ice Climbing
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I am trying to decide between the Lowa Weisshorn GTX and the Lowa Latok with the built in gaitor as my first pair of ice climbing and alpine boots. |
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See the link in the above post for the details. Here is a pic of the two: |
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Buy whatever fits your foot the best. Go to a shop and get fitted if this is your first pair of mountaineering boots. I understand you're trying to save $$ with a pro deal. If your boots have lots of heel lift or are too small you won't be happy with your purchase. |
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Always go warmer if your extremities run cold. In my experience the supergaitor style boots are considerably warmer, and are more like a 4k - 5k boot. Making the switch from a leather boot to a Phantom Guide was a great decision for me, climbing in the Canadian Rockies. |
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For now the target is going to be the Colorado Front Range, maybe a winter 14er completion in due time. |
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I haven't used either but I will say I ordered a pair of the gtx and they run small so be sure you know your size. I typically wear a 9.5, ordered a 10 and they were way too small with street socks. I returned them and ordered an 11 and 11.5 which should get here tomorrow. I can let you know more if it will help. |
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I just purchased the Weisshorn GTX, but only have 2 trips on them. One was just a 12 mile hike to see how they fit and the other was climbing trip that only involved some glacier climbing and 4th class rock. I liked the fit and feel of the Weisshorn and I have a wide foot with a high instep. I haven't got to do any waterfall ice yet though, so I don't know how they'll do there, but the heel cup seems to hold my foot down pretty well when I stand with just the tips of the toes on an edge. I wanted the Phantom guide, but $ was an issue. I also was concerned about the Guides holding up to my abuse, as I'm pretty hard on boots. I have a set of Salomon CC ski boots that are the supergaiter style and the materials failed after only a few seasons so I was concerned that I would kick out 5 or 6 bills on the Guides and that they wouldn't hold up like a sturdy set of leather boots like the Weisshorn or Nepal EVO. I know guys who have the Phantom Guides and love them, but they don't beat the shit out of their gear like I do. |
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Couple seasons in the Weisshorn--would love to check out the Latok, but haven't had the occasion yet. |
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Most excellent, thanks for the replies. I love my Lowa Tibet boots, though I did end up getting the Orange Superfeet to make them more comfy. The only other issue is my skinny ankle, which gets rubbed the wrong way if the tongue is centered. My solution is to use the tongue stud to offset the tongue to the outside, and things are perfect. |
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Coppo, did you get a chance to use them on WI? |
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Yo Jake! |
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coppolillo wrote:Yo Jake! Yes, bunches of pitches on water ice, mixed stuff, walking (5ish miles) into Longs Peak, ice park in Ouray, on Mont Blanc and the Gran Paradiso.....I can't say enough good things about 'em. I use a custom footbed in them. I've hung at a belay at 13,000 ft for an hour in 'em, totally warm--I love 'em. I finally stashed a pair in Europe and have another brand new pair sitting next to me. Buy what fits, for sure, but if the Weisshorn works for you, then I say this thing is the rig....the ankle cuff, in particular, offers so much more mobility than the competitors' models---not a huge deal for vertical ice, but french technique, walking on snow...amazing mobility without feeling unsupportive.... Anyway, awesome boots!Europe stash... Damn. I need one of those. I definitely read lots of great reviews about the ankle flex while still holding true to front point stability. I will be doing lots of hiking in them, as the ice climb will only be the icing on the alpine cake. What custom footbed do you use? I have an extra Superfeet Green, but they make one specific to cold environments that I will be searching out called RedHot. Def open to check another brand. superfeet.com/en-us/insoles… |
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i had 'em made here in boulder...are the Red Hots insulated? cool idea.... |
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Ive used the Weisshorn GTX the past 3 seasons and love them. Superior to my previous La Sportiva Nepals in fit, comfort, and feel on the ice/ mixed. Warmth wise, they've been fine for winter conditions in Colorado. |
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Another detail I just noticed this evening...the Nepal Cube does NOT have a rubber rand on the boot--it's some kind of synthetic and definitely not sticky...if this matters to you.... |
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coppolillo wrote:i had 'em made here in boulder...are the Red Hots insulated? cool idea.... good luck! i think you'll be psyched with the Weisshorn or the Latok...I went with the Weisshorns again, fearing the Latok would be too warm for Colo and summer alpine in Europe..... RCWhere did you get custom orthotics made in Boulder? What was the cost? What crampons do you use with the Weisshorn? I am starting a new thread to ask about the Petzl Lynx vs the Grivel G14. Weight wise, the Latok WITH integrated gaitors weigh less than the Weisshorn boot alone, so adding the OR Exped Croc gaitors would add even more. This may have something to do with durability. |
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Ob a side note, check out this POV clip of Mt Weisshorn - amazing ridge running and sheer cliff. |
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yeah, Clint, that Latok is mostly synthetic materials...but man, I bet that thing's warm....think more Canmore than Colorado, I bet. |
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coppolillo wrote:yeah, Clint, that Latok is mostly synthetic materials...but man, I bet that thing's warm....think more Canmore than Colorado, I bet. I have a buddy who's in retirement at the moment (raising kids), used to be the bootfitter at Neptune in Boulder. He made my footbeds. I think Russ Bollig is supposed to be very good, too. There was a gent in Denver, Lee Kinney, who sadly passed away last year....but his top employee took over the biz--you might look into him. I can get you info if need be, or call Neptune. I'm typically running a Cassin C12 or Blade Runner on my Weisshorns--with good results. They recalled the Blade Runners last spring, though, so waiting on my replacement sets. Think they had a couple of front frames crack....literally fewer than 10...but they chose to recall anyway. They're spendy and a little heavy, but you can change from horizontal to vertical, mono to dual....i've liked 'em, seem really good..... right on, man, let us know what you get and how like 'em! p.s.--i generally wear a 43 in a LaSport, but my Weisshorns are 42....just an fyi.....I heard Camp put the Bladerunners through some kind of test where they twisted on them for like a 1000 cycles. The pin broke so they recalled. I didn't realize the Bladerunners broke out and about. That's scary to me being 245 pounds. Thanks for posting |
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i think they did their fatigue tests and then they had a few--i'm talking four or five--develop a crack...and they jumped all over it. sounded to me like they were being really pro-active/cautious, but hey---like you say, better to be safe than sorry! i think replacements are coming back from italy now/soon.....i'm psyched they voluntarily did this---i had two sets going the past year and never had a problem...i was totally bummed to send mine back! but---awesome they're replacing 'em. psyched for the season! |
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I have had the lowa mountain expert gtx for the past 2 seasons. They have worked well for a fair amount of winter 14ers, iceclimbing, and a hike up a 6000m peak. I typically run pretty cold, but I sized them up so that I could wear a heavy pair of socks if needed. They seem to be very durable as well. The fit and feel is very similar to the weisshorn, I tried them both on but ultimately went with these because i found a better deal. I think the only difference is the cuff at the top. I hope this is helpful. |