Mountain Project Logo

Aid climbing colorado

Original Post
Donald Letts · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 149

Looking to get into aid climbing.

Last weekend my buddy and i both led Sunshine kid, C1 at the Sunshine wall in the south platte (not listed in MP). I would like to get some more experience and smooth out our systems. In the near future i'd like to shoot for moonlight buttress.

Can anyone suggest some good beginner/intermediate routes in colorado that an aspiring aid climber could tackle?

any gear suggestions would also be helpful. i've currently got quad cams .1 - #4, some hooks (cliffhanger, grappling, talon), micro nuts, micro offset nuts, regular nuts and aiders, ascenders, fifi.

Thanks for the help!

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

Triple Exposure at the Garden of the Gods is good. Any continuous crack on a rainy day. The easier aid towers near Moab are a good stepping stone before doing a wall.

DMM aluminum offsets, tricams, offset aliens or similar small offset cams, and more cams in general are good. Ball nuts are really handy sometimes on thin cracks, and a few sawed angles and beaks for hand placing are nice.

EDJ Johnson · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 110

country club crack on a snowy/rainy day is a good call

Matt Pickren · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 769

Please DO NOT aid anything on sandstone during a "rainy day." I truely hope an administrator would not suggest aiding anything in either GotG, or anything in Moab, during or even following the rain. I believe A Gram just ment 'a day while not free climbing,' not actually during precipitation.

Good luck with your aid climbing goals.

Brian C. · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,100

Triple Exposure is sweet and as good as it gets on the Front Range. Check raptor closures before driving down there though.

England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270
Andrew Gram wrote:Triple Exposure at the Garden of the Gods is good. Any continuous crack on a rainy day. The easier aid towers near Moab are a good stepping stone before doing a wall. DMM aluminum offsets, tricams, offset aliens or similar small offset cams, and more cams in general are good. Ball nuts are really handy sometimes on thin cracks, and a few sawed angles and beaks for hand placing are nice.
I swear to God if I had a rubber hose!
teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Aid climbers do NOT need to wait for a rainy day. Any day will suffice.

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

I should have been more clear, but I meant any continuous crack on granite during a rainy day. Aiding on sandstone during the rain is such a glaringly bad idea that it should be obvious not to do it, but mea culpa - I should have written more carefully.

Aid climbers don't have to wait for a rainy day, but if you want to go aid C1 cracks at Turkey Rocks on a nice day you are a jerk.

Matt Pickren · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 769

I fully agree with you, I was pretty sure of what you meant. Just didn't want it to get misunderstood down the lines.

Aiding a c1 crack at Indian Creek on a splitter day, have at it😉.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "Aid climbing colorado"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started