Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Aidan Maguire |
Page Views: | 1,422 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Scott T on Feb 12, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
This route now has it's own direct start. It stays to the right of the Stepping Stone start.
Cruise up past a downward facing flake and continue easily to a rest and a small right facing ramp/corner. Bust left out of the corner to a splitter finger crack which continues to the anchor. This is the first belay of Desperado, just before the roof. Lower or rap off.
Moving onto the face at the bolt is the crux...pretty insecure and barndoor-ish. Might be easier to step down to a break, then onto the face. Another hard move in the finger crack up higher.
A small flake broke at the crux, and is probably now rated 10a.
Cruise up past a downward facing flake and continue easily to a rest and a small right facing ramp/corner. Bust left out of the corner to a splitter finger crack which continues to the anchor. This is the first belay of Desperado, just before the roof. Lower or rap off.
Moving onto the face at the bolt is the crux...pretty insecure and barndoor-ish. Might be easier to step down to a break, then onto the face. Another hard move in the finger crack up higher.
A small flake broke at the crux, and is probably now rated 10a.
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