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Donald Letts
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Oct 29, 2015
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Golden, CO
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 149
Looking to get into aid climbing. Last weekend my buddy and i both led Sunshine kid, C1 at the Sunshine wall in the south platte (not listed in MP). I would like to get some more experience and smooth out our systems. In the near future i'd like to shoot for moonlight buttress. Can anyone suggest some good beginner/intermediate routes in colorado that an aspiring aid climber could tackle? any gear suggestions would also be helpful. i've currently got quad cams .1 - #4, some hooks (cliffhanger, grappling, talon), micro nuts, micro offset nuts, regular nuts and aiders, ascenders, fifi. Thanks for the help!
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Andrew Gram
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Oct 29, 2015
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 3,725
Triple Exposure at the Garden of the Gods is good. Any continuous crack on a rainy day. The easier aid towers near Moab are a good stepping stone before doing a wall. DMM aluminum offsets, tricams, offset aliens or similar small offset cams, and more cams in general are good. Ball nuts are really handy sometimes on thin cracks, and a few sawed angles and beaks for hand placing are nice.
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EDJ Johnson
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Nov 2, 2015
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Eldorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 110
country club crack on a snowy/rainy day is a good call
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Matt Pickren
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Nov 2, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2005
· Points: 769
Please DO NOT aid anything on sandstone during a "rainy day." I truely hope an administrator would not suggest aiding anything in either GotG, or anything in Moab, during or even following the rain. I believe A Gram just ment 'a day while not free climbing,' not actually during precipitation. Good luck with your aid climbing goals.
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Brian C.
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Nov 2, 2015
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Longmont, CO
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 1,100
Triple Exposure is sweet and as good as it gets on the Front Range. Check raptor closures before driving down there though.
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England
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Nov 2, 2015
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Colorado Springs
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 270
Andrew Gram wrote:Triple Exposure at the Garden of the Gods is good. Any continuous crack on a rainy day. The easier aid towers near Moab are a good stepping stone before doing a wall. DMM aluminum offsets, tricams, offset aliens or similar small offset cams, and more cams in general are good. Ball nuts are really handy sometimes on thin cracks, and a few sawed angles and beaks for hand placing are nice. I swear to God if I had a rubber hose!
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teece303
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Nov 2, 2015
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Highlands Ranch, CO
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 596
Aid climbers do NOT need to wait for a rainy day. Any day will suffice.
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Andrew Gram
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Nov 3, 2015
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 3,725
I should have been more clear, but I meant any continuous crack on granite during a rainy day. Aiding on sandstone during the rain is such a glaringly bad idea that it should be obvious not to do it, but mea culpa - I should have written more carefully. Aid climbers don't have to wait for a rainy day, but if you want to go aid C1 cracks at Turkey Rocks on a nice day you are a jerk.
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Matt Pickren
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Nov 3, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2005
· Points: 769
I fully agree with you, I was pretty sure of what you meant. Just didn't want it to get misunderstood down the lines. Aiding a c1 crack at Indian Creek on a splitter day, have at it😉.
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