Rate my multipitch belay setup

Just learning how to set up top-belays for multipitch sport routes. A friend is teaching me, but I figured I may as well practice on my own! I'm also going to give a quick description of my setup.

1. (Note that the black and red slings at top to which my anchors are attached are my "bolts")

2. PAS through tie-in points and attached to one bolt with locker, quickdraw clipped to other bolt and to PAS.

3. Cordellete made with double-length nylon sling, ATC-guide attached to end in guide mode. It doesn't look equalized in this picture, but when force is applied to the belay device it equalizes.

4. As I belay, rope is stacked over my PAS.

Let me know if there is anything wrong with this setup or what I need to change! I know there are a variety of other systems that I could use, but at the moment I am interested to see if this one is safe. Thanks!

Why not just clip the PAS to your yellow sling on the master point or shelf?

Less clutter, less gear, just as strong.

Ditch the PAS, clove to the masterpoint.

As pointed out, you have three more carabiners than you need. Use the masterpoint; that's what it's for.

tie into the anchor with the rope instead of the PAS. use the PAS only for the raps. if you're walking off instead of rapping, don't even bother bringing it.

I personally prefer a quad for 2 bolts but your set-up is fine too. do keep in mind, though, that a set-up, such as the quad, that is pre-built will be faster and if you're climbing a lot of pitches time builds up.

GU Climb wrote:Just learning how to set up top-belays for multipitch sport routes. A friend is teaching me, but I figured I may as well practice on my own! I'm also going to give a quick description of my setup. 1. (Note that the black and red slings at top to which my anchors are attached are my "bolts") 2. PAS through tie-in points and attached to one bolt with locker, quickdraw clipped to other bolt and to PAS. 3. Cordellete made with double-length nylon sling, ATC-guide attached to end in guide mode. It doesn't look equalized in this picture, but when force is applied to the belay device it equalizes. 4. As I belay, rope is stacked over my PAS. Let me know if there is anything wrong with this setup or what I need to change! I know there are a variety of other systems that I could use, but at the moment I am interested to see if this one is safe. Thanks!

for multi pitch sport (bolts there in good setup) i would just use the rope to do all that.

no need for cordalette, slings, pas...

rope goes from your harness to 1st bolt, locker and clove hitch, then figure 8 on a bight to correct length with atc guide, then cloved hitched to second bolt with a locker.

4 lockers, belay device, nothing else.

GU Climb wrote:Let me know if there is anything wrong with this setup or what I need to change! I know there are a variety of other systems that I could use, but at the moment I am interested to see if this one is safe. Thanks!

christoph benells wrote:for multi pitch sport (bolts there in good setup) i would just use the rope to do all that. no need for cordalette, slings, pas... rope goes from your harness to 1st bolt, locker and clove hitch, then figure 8 on a bight to correct length with atc guide, then cloved hitched to second bolt with a locker. 4 lockers, belay device, nothing else.

Alright, I thank you all for the feedback!

How does this look for a simpler setup?
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GU Climb wrote:Alright, I thank you all for the feedback! How does this look for a simpler setup?

looks great although you may want to consider cloving your tie-in to the shelf instead of the master point, especially if you don't have a nice big loop for the master point.

Read Topic 6 - The Belay on multipitchclimbing.com/. Then buy the e-book.

That set up is excellent.

Nylon v. dyneema is basically an academic debate. Dyneema ties tighter knots with less fabric, weighs less, nylon is more durable long term and offers a little elasticity should a stupidly high fall factor happen.

A great thread. Respectable query, clear answers. Mentoring and no bullshit. This is what makes the internet great.

From your original set up, your belay device is lower than it should be relative to how far your pas is extended. Using the rope to tie off the correct length is a better way, IMO.

eli poss wrote:looks great although you may want to consider cloving your tie-in to the shelf instead of the master point...

Barrett Pauer wrote:Ditch the PAS, clove to the masterpoint.

Holy shit, did this actually get answered without PAS flaming?! Well done, MP, we're getting better. Oh and, as always, Yer Gonna Die!

GU Climb wrote:Alright, I thank you all for the feedback! How does this look for a simpler setup?

Another Trick is to tie yourself into the master point as you are, but then put your belay device into the shelf. If you can set the masterpoint higher it helps with rope management when your belaying up the second.

Possibly consider reducing the angle between the two "bolts" by lengthening the sling (ie the master point will be further away from the bolts)... lower angle = less force on the bolts.