The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...
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I've been thinking we should add safety railings at the edge of all the cliffs at Devils Lake as well. |
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jon jugenheimer wrote:How to shorten webbing? Just keep it daisy chained.At least that sharp edge is padded. :-) |
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With the mid westerner's penchant for being overfed and under-experienced in an unforgiving sport... poor anchors can be thought of as natural selection at work. |
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Yes it does, which is why it is sad that this thread exists and is full of so many bad anchors! |
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Cams are fine. I whipped once and the cam rotated and the last two lobes in the crack stopped me. |
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Fallen a number of times on cams at the lake. Still talking about it. |
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Friend of mine was leading The Pooper in the fall and whipped at the crux onto a blue mastercam (alloy offset below it) and was totally fine. He went back up, placed a perfect blue alien in a horizontal above the mastercam, tried again and fell. This time all 3 pieces blew and he took a ~20 foot grounder onto his ass and back. Luckily he was totally fine and walked away but the blue alien that was his top piece was totalled. The lobe umbrellaed, was flat-spotted, and the triggerwires blew. We definitely are less stoked on placing cams at the lake these days. |
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Jake Stern wrote:Friend of mine was leading The Pooper in the fall and whipped at the crux onto a blue mastercam (alloy offset below it) and was totally fine. He went back up, placed a perfect blue alien in a horizontal above the mastercam, tried again and fell. This time all 3 pieces blew and he took a ~20 foot grounder onto his ass and back. Luckily he was totally fine and walked away but the blue alien that was his top piece was totalled. The lobe umbrellaed, was flat-spotted, and the triggerwires blew. We definitely are less stoked on placing cams at the lake these days.Are you sure? |
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Three pieces zippering? At the Lake or otherwise it sounds like that dude needs a lesson in placing gear. |
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Jake Stern wrote:Friend of mine was leading The Pooper in the fall and whipped at the crux onto a blue mastercam (alloy offset below it) and was totally fine. He went back up, placed a perfect blue alien in a horizontal above the mastercam, tried again and fell. This time all 3 pieces blew and he took a ~20 foot grounder onto his ass and back. Luckily he was totally fine and walked away but the blue alien that was his top piece was totalled. The lobe umbrellaed, was flat-spotted, and the triggerwires blew. We definitely are less stoked on placing cams at the lake these days.Gear shifts under load, and relaxing the load can allow it to walk into a position where the piece won't hold. My analysis? That blue Mastercam, as originally placed, was the only good one of the bunch, but it needed to be reset before taking another whip. |
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Hmm...not sure how the nature of the rock would lead to trashing a cam. Leading the pooper? Ugh. Why would you want to do that? Lol. |
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Kyle Harding wrote:The lake made Climbing Magazine's Unbelayvable section yesterday. climbing.com/news/unbelayva…OMG That tops anything I've seen. |
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Wow- that's marvelous right there. |
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Nick Wilkes wrote: Noticed this yesterday while hiking with my boys.That might be the largest american death triangle ive ever seen. |
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Or that it involves using more material than you would need for a safe anchor... |
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