Any big walls that the average climber can do the first pitch of?
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By no means would I attempt a big wall at this point in my climbing career, but I can still dream right? My question is if there are any big wall lines that a 5.9 leader could do the first 1-3 pitches of free. Classic areas are welcome, Yosemite, Zion, etc. I just think it would be an amazing experience to throw myself and a partner up the first two pitches of a mega classic, just to stand in the shoes of the giants. Thanks MP. |
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Just about any C1/2 wall would be fine. Look for a straight forward abseil back down and a short walk in. |
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fromtheestuary wrote:By no means would I attempt a big wall at this point in my climbing career, but I can still dream right? My question is if there are any big wall lines that a 5.9 leader could do the first 1-3 pitches of free. Classic areas are welcome, Yosemite, Zion, etc. I just think it would be an amazing experience to throw myself and a partner up the first two pitches of a mega classic, just to stand in the shoes of the giants. Thanks MP.I guess you can want to free the start (<5.9) without aiding? Top of my head, you can do Washington Column's first pitch. Moonlight Buttress first pitch. Space Shot's first 3 pitches. If you are willing to aid a little bit, then your option opens up a lot. |
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Yeah I've got the basic aid gear (aiders, micro nuts, bashies, ascenders). If so, what would other options be? |
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I think a common start to The Nose on El Cap is Pine Line (5.7) |
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fromtheestuary wrote:Yeah I've got the basic aid gear (aiders, micro nuts, bashies, ascenders). If so, what would other options be? Thank you again in advance.You can do Spaceshot, a hook, micro nuts and a couple set of regular and offset cams will get you up the thing. |
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First few pitches are easy for The Prow |
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Up to Dinner Ledge on the SFWC goes at ~5.9 A1, ie if you pull on some gear for the 10b 2nd pitch, you can keep the free climbing at ~5.9 |
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fromtheestuary wrote:Yeah I've got the basic aid gear (aiders, micro nuts, bashies, ascenders). If so, what would other options be? Thank you again in advance.Heads are not really basic aid gear and if you're climbing trade route pitches for experience any needed (and many unneeded) heads will be in situ. Leave the head kit and hammer at home until you're ready to commit to a more out of the way route. |
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kevin deweese wrote: Heads are not really basic aid gear and if you're climbing trade route pitches for experience any needed (and many unneeded) heads will be in situ. Leave the head kit and hammer at home until you're ready to commit to a more out of the way route.This^^ |
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fromtheestuary wrote:By no means would I attempt a big wall at this point in my climbing career, but I can still dream right? My question is if there are any big wall lines that a 5.9 leader could do the first 1-3 pitches of free. Classic areas are welcome, Yosemite, Zion, etc. I just think it would be an amazing experience to throw myself and a partner up the first two pitches of a mega classic, just to stand in the shoes of the giants. Thanks MP.Why don't you up the ante a bit and take on a mid sized wall like Cannon in new Hampshire? Climbs like Whitney Gilman and Moby Grape are great intro climbs for the aspiring big waller. |
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Understood, like I said I just want to dream for an hour. Certainly do not want to inhibit any serious party's time/attempt on a route. Thank you for the suggestions guys. |
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christopher adams wrote: Why don't you up the ante a bit and take on a mid sized wall like Cannon in new Hampshire? Climbs like Whitney Gilman and Moby Grape are great intro climbs for the aspiring big waller.???? Moby Grape and WG couldn't even be considered long free climbs, much less good intros to wall climbing. |
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Mark Hudon wrote: ???? Moby Grape and WG couldn't even be considered long free climbs, much less good intros to wall climbing.I strongly disagree with you here, but i think mostly on our definitions of wall climbing. To me, wall climbing is not just aiding. It's also free climbing. Anything more than 700 feet is imho, a big wall. To someone climbing 5.12, those routes can be climbed in a couple hours as long as there's no traffic. They ain't no thing. To someone climbing at the grade, they're a great intro to route finding, rope management, and an all day adventure. |
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christopher adams wrote: I strongly disagree with you here, but i think mostly on our definitions of wall climbing. To me, wall climbing is not just aiding. It's also free climbing. Anything more than 700 feet is imho, a big wall. To someone climbing 5.12, those routes can be climbed in a couple hours as long as there's no traffic. They ain't no thing. To someone climbing at the grade, they're a great intro to route finding, rope management, and an all day adventure.700ft? I pretty much have to agree with Mark here. That's not even grade IV, certainly not a long free climb. Not that they aren't worthy objectives and that they aren't good practice for bigger things, but nobody I know would consider 6 pitches a bigwall or even a relatively long free climb. Totally different ballgame. Even if all 6 pitches were aid, I'd not consider that a bigwall and that would almost certainly take me all day long. And also not at all what the OP asked about, and not mutually exclusive. The OP asked about doing the start of bigwall routes. Having done this, I can say that before you actually get on a wall, it is pretty cool to do a few pitches and look up at the marvel that is the rest of El Cap looming above you. Doesn't mean you can't go get on a long free route the next day. |
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I recommend cragging at the base of El Cap. There's several awesome climbs 5.9 and under and there's no better place to get psyched on big walls. Plus, you probably wouldn't be getting in the way of most people trying to do the wall for real. (Just stay away from pine line early in the morning to avoid people starting the nose) |