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Looking for a Nano Puffy Hooded Belay Jacket.

Original Post
rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

I lost my Patagonia nano puff a few weeks ago. I bought another one but they have changed the cut off the jacket. It fits like a mid later now and what I'm looking for is something that I can wear over a harness.

What I'm looking for is a light, wind resistant, synthetic jacket with hood and 60 gram/m2 of insulation. I've been browsing the net but can't seem to find any that are cut for belay purpose. All I've found are a jacket/mid-layer type. Primary use will be for belaying on late season multi pitch rock climbs. I already own a 100gr jacket which I use for ice. I just find it to heavy for rock.

T340 · · Idaho · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

The RAB Xenon X, perhaps?

kevino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0

this pretty much sums up the nuclei hoody. there is also a beefed up version (the AR)

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Rocknice2,

Yeah I know what you're dealing with in regards to patagonia changing the cut of their garments. I worke a medium puffy for years, bought a new one and could barely get it around my waist. I went up a size as I'd rather have it a bit big. It fits over my harness no problem.

As for Rab, it's an English cut and didn't come close to working for me a few years ago when I bought some soft shell stuff.

Good luck finding something.

Mark

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

Both the Rab Xenon and the Arc' Nuclei are slim fit.

I looked at TNF Thermoball hoodie. From my experience, most of TNF's clothing line have a couch potato cut. Anyone own this jacket or tried on on?

Mark, by english cut, do you mean euro cut.? I know a regular euro cut is a trim american cut.

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Yes, English cut being Euro cut being our slim cut! Though with that said most slim cuts fit me fine through chest and shoulders if it's a jacket (I have a couple Patagonia slim cuts - R1 and piton jacket and hoody but they're more base layer and stretchy).

I'll try a Thermoball on the next time I'm at the store I work at later this week!

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

What size are you?? I have a Patagonia Micro Puff (model is 3-4 years ago) that I'd be willing to part with.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

Thanks Mark, that would be great.
Yeah I have a few slim cut puffies and they are awesome for climbing as a base layer or jacket. Put them on under a harness and you can actually see the harness. They are also way lighter than any fleece.

As for a belay jacket, I would need to buy a large slim cut as opposed to a medium regular cut. I usually wear a small and a large becomes a trench coat on me.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
Nick Votto wrote:What size are you?? I have a Patagonia Micro Puff (model is 3-4 years ago) that I'd be willing to part with.
Yeah the micro puff has 100gr/m2 insulation. I already own a great jacket in that warmth. Thanks for the offer.

I wore a medium nano puff.
mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885
rocknice2 wrote: Yeah the micro puff has 100gr/m2 insulation. I already own a great jacket in that warmth. Thanks for the offer. I wore a medium nano puff.
A bit fuzzy on what you want. You're looking for a 60g hooded primaloft that IS NOT SLIM? i.e. leaves a bit of room to go over things? Not exactly sure the fit and function you want.

What build, jacket / shirt size are you? Will help with what you consider slim fitting.
Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Are you trying to replace a Nano or upgrade to a bigger coat?? Arcteryx Atom SV is longer cut, allows lots of room for layers and performs really well in wet weather.....its saved my ass in bad ice conditions many a day.

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Oops scratch that last reply, I now see you're specifically looking for a 60 gm coat but will a longer cut for belays.....there's not a ton, I'd also recommend at least trying on the RAB Xenon if you haven't already.

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039

You might try Patagonia's new Nanoair. My wife has one--it's 60g synthetic insulation but a more traditional over-everything fit for a belay jacket (as opposed to a mid-layer).

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

arcteryx Atom LT is 60 grams.

I'm selling a large that is perfect condition if you are interested. I had to size up.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
mattm wrote: A bit fuzzy on what you want. You're looking for a 60g hooded primaloft that IS NOT SLIM? i.e. leaves a bit of room to go over things? Not exactly sure the fit and function you want. What build, jacket / shirt size are you? Will help with what you consider slim fitting.
Exactly. I'm looking for a hooded belay jacket with 60gr/m2 of synthetic insulation. It needs to fit easily over a harness.

I'm a 39 chest short, 32 waist. So a large jacket is too long. A regular cut would be OK in medium and a loose cut I take in small.
rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

Both Nanoair and Atom LT are slim fir.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

I got a Thermoball for cheap right when they came out and like it for a belay jacket. It's not cut excessively large. I'm looking for a good deal on a Patagonia DAS Parka or BD Stance Parka for really cold weather belays.

T340 · · Idaho · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

I did not realize that Patagonia changed the design and sizing on the nano puff. I have two older Nanos and the fit, if anything, is rather baggy.
Easy to layer underneath. Too bad they changed it.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Whatever fits you well and is onsale

Any decent brand will work

These synthetic poofays loose 30%+ of their insulation value within the first month of continuous use anyways

So buy it on sale

;)

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
kevino wrote:this pretty much sums up the nuclei hoody. there is also a beefed up version (the AR)
Second that, the nuclei is a great belay jacket for rock use. I like that it's not stitched through anywhere, helps it stay warmer in higher winds. I'm 5'8" and around 165, it's nice to find something that isn't cut like a garbage bag.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
rocknice2 wrote:Both the Rab Xenon and the Arc' Nuclei are slim fit. I looked at TNF Thermoball hoodie. From my experience, most of TNF's clothing line have a couch potato cut. Anyone own this jacket or tried on on? Mark, by english cut, do you mean euro cut.? I know a regular euro cut is a trim american cut.
My wife and I tried on the Thermoball jacket and hoody. The hoody's cut smaller than the jacket. Both are bigger than any other brand micro puffy. My wife bought a BD Hot Forge Hybrid hoody since it was on sale.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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